F 
165* 
M3 


CAS'-. 


NARRATIVE  OF  RICHARD  LEE   MASON  IN 
THE  PIONEER  WEST,  1819 


Heartman's  Historical  Series  No.  6 


DR.   RICHARD  LEE  MASON 


NARRATIVE 

OF 
RICHARD  LEE   MASON 

-/ 

IN   THE   PIONEER  WEST 
1819 


One  hundred  and  sixty  copies  printed  for 
CHAS.  FRED.   HEARTMAN,  New  York  City 


CASi 


TO 

G.  J.  BARBER,  Esq. 
this  book  is  dedicated 

by 
Chas.  Fred.  Heartman 


Number of  150  copies  printed 

on  Fabriano  hand-made  paper. 

Also  ten  copies  printed  on  Japan  Vel 
lum. 


In  the  late  fall  and  early  winter  of  the  year  1819 
Dr.  Richard  Lee  Mason  made  a  journey  from 
Philadelphia  to  Illinois,  through  Pennsylvania, 
Ohio,  Kentucky  and  Indiana.  Some  of  his  adven 
tures  were  remarkable,  and  these,  together  with 
his  observations  on  the  country,  the  towns  and 
the  people  whom  he  encountered,  were  recorded 
in  a  diary  kept  by  him,  which  is  now  in  the  pos 
session  of  his  only  surviving  child,  a  daughter, 
who  resides  in  Jacksonville,  111.  Dr.  Mason  was 
a  remarkably  intelligent  observer,  and  his  record 
of  the  people  whom  he  encountered  in  Illinois 
more  than  three-quarters  of  a  century  ago,  not 
to  mention  his  notes  of  travel  in  other  states,  is 
unique  and  valuable. 

Richard  Lee  Mason,  whose  diary  is  being  pub 
lished  in  THE  RECORD,  was  born  in  Port  Tobacco, 
Md.  In  1806  he  was  married  to  Mary  Hodge 
Cochrane.  Seven  children  were  born  to  them, 
of  whom  five  lived  to  maturity.  Soon  after  his 
marriage  he  was  graduated  from  the  medical 
department  of  the  University  of  Pennsylvania. 
For  a  time  he  did  military  service  in  the  war  of 
1812,  belonging  to  a  cavalry  company  called  "The 
White  Horsemen."  For  this  service  he  was 
awarded  a  large  tract  of  bounty  land  near  Alton, 
111.  It  was  to  locate  and  take  possession  of  this 
land  that  the  long  journey  from  Philadelphia  to 
St.  Louis  was  taken. 

9 


So  pleased  was  Dr.  Mason  with  his  "promised 
land"  and  the  west  country,  that  he  determined 
to  send  for  his  family  and  follow  his  profession 
in  St.  Louis.  This  he  did,  and  he  was  held  in  high 
esteem,  but  he  did  not  live  long  to  enjoy  the  re 
union  with  his  family,  and  the  appreciation  of 
friends.  The  hardships  of  his  trip  and  exposure 
to  malarial  atmosphere  had  impaired  his  health, 
and  he  died  in  1824,  having  submitted  gracefully 
to  the  heroic  treatment  of  the  day,  which  admitted 
of  much  bleeding  and  blistering. 

Dr.  Mason  was  buried  in  a  newly  purchased 
masonic  cemetery,  some  distance  beyond  the  St. 
Louis  city  limits,  in  ground  that  is  now  Washing 
ton  avenue,  between  Tenth  and  Eleventh  streets. 
Subsequently  this  ground  was  found  too  wet  for 
the  purpose  designed,  and  Dr.  Mason's  body  was 
removed.  It  is  of  interest  to  know  that  he  was 
the  first  mason  interred  with  the  honors  of  the 
order  in  the  state  of  Missouri.  His  funeral  was 
made  the  occasion  of  a  grand  procession,  escorted 
by  Capt.  Archibald  Gamble's  troop  of  cavalry. 


This  record  was  published  some  twenty  years  ago  in 
a  newspaper  from  which  this  reprint  is  made  Decoration 
Day,  1915. 

H. 


10 


I. — PHILADELPHIA  TO  STEUBENVILLE 

Monday,  Oct.  4, 1819.— Dr.  Hall  and  myself  left 
Philadelphia  at  1  o'clock  p.  m.  after  taking  an 
affectionate  leave  of  friends  and  acquaintances. 
Fair  and  pleasant  weather,  and  the  roads  very 
fine  in  consequence  of  a  refreshing  shower  of 
rain  which  fell  on  the  night  previous  to  our  set 
ting  out.  After  traveling  twenty-two  miles  and 
passing  some  rich  and  well-cultivated  farms  we 
arrived  at  West  Chester  at  7  o'clock.  West  Ches 
ter  contains  about  600  inhabitants,  several  places 
of  worship,  a  gaol,  etc.,  etc.  A  man  named  Dow 
ney  is  confined  in  the  gaol  of  this  place  for  debt. 
He  was  once  in  affluence,  but  from  misfortunes 
and  some  imprudence  he  became  reduced  in  cir 
cumstances.  During  his  confinement  he  deter 
mined  to  starve  himself  to  death,  and  for  seven 
days  had  refused  nourishment  of  every  descrip 
tion.  Even  the  clergy  waited  on  him  and  en 
deavored  to  dissuade  him  from  his  rash  deter 
mination,  offering  him  food  of  different  kinds, 
but  all  without  avail.  He  was  able  to  stand.  No 
doubt  one  or  two  more  days  will  end  his  troubles. 
How  long,  0  my  country,  will  your  cheeks  con- 

11 


tinue  to  be  crimsoned  by  the  blush  that  must  fol 
low  the  plunging  an  innocent  and  unfortunate 
being,  a  debtor,  in  a  dungeon,  amongst  murderers 
and  cut-throats? 

Tuesday,  Oct.  5. — Left  West  Chester  at  7  o'clock 
a.  m.  Traveled  a  rough  road.  Passed  some 
travelers  on  foot  migrating  to  the  west  who  were 
able  to  keep  pace  with  us  for  a  considerable  dis 
tance.  Breakfasted  with  an  old  Dutchman  who, 
for  unpolished  manners  and  even  a  want  of  com 
mon  politeness,  surpassed  in  expectation  even  the 
wild  men  of  Illinois.  He  had  been  a  tavern- 
keeper  for  forty  years.  Roads  rough.  Lands 
tolerable,  but  so  well  farmed  that  the  traveler 
is  compelled  in  many  places  to  admire  them.  Ar 
rived  in  Strasburg  at  6  o'clock  p.  m.  Neat  little 
village.  Distance  twenty-eight  miles.  Lodged  at 
a  private  house  near  the  village.  Was  treated 
with  great  civility.  I  was  extremely  sore  and 
tired,  riding  on  horseback.  Saddlebags  very 
heavy.  A  refreshing  sleep  fitted  me  for  the  labors 
of  the  next  day. 

Wednesday,  Oct.  6.— Left  Mr.  -  -  at  6  o'clock 
a.  m.  The  day  pleasant.  Roads  rough.  Traveled 
nine  miles  and  arrived  at  Lancaster,  a  large  and 
handsome  inland  town.  Inhabitants  principally 
German,  very  industrious  and  good  farmers. 

12 


Buildings  chiefly  brick.  Considerable  business 
done  in  this  town.  Left  Lancaster,  traveled  ten 
miles  and  arrived  at  Columbia,  situated  on  the 
bold  Susquehanna,  but  placed  without  much  taste 
or  beauty.  The  bridge  over  the  Susquehanna  is 
the  longest  in  the  United  States.  It  is  placed 
on  regular  pillars  for  one  and  a  quarter  miles. 
Its  beauty  and  strength  reflect  much  credit  on  the 
designer  and  those  who  executed  the  work.  Its 
erection  has  added  much  to  the  comfort  and  con 
venience  of  the  public.  Left  Columbia  4  o'clock, 
and  arrived  at  Little  York  at  6  o'clock  p.  m.  Here 
the  lands  are  rich,  the  inhabitants  look  healthy 
and  appear  happy  and  independent.  The  village 
is  built  with  much  taste  and  judgment  and  ap 
pears  to  be  a  place  of  business.  No  lands  for  sale 
for  many  years  past  in  the  neighborhood,  but 
the  supposed  value  about  $200  per  acre.  The 
eyes  of  the  traveler  light  on  this  part  of  the 
country  with  rapture.  He  would  even  venture 
to  barter  all  his  fair  prospects  in  the  west  country, 
collected  from  travelers,  for  one  of  those  beauti 
ful  farms  to  be  seen  every  mile. 

Thursday,  Oct.  7.— Left  Little  York  6  o'clock 
a.  m.,  traveled  twenty-nine  miles  and  arrived  at 
Gettysburg,  a  small  village,  at  5  o'clock  p.  m.  The 
inhabitants  very  religious.  Bad  roads,  owing  to 
their  making  a  new  turnpike.  Nineteen  miles  to 

13 


be  finished  in  six  weeks.  About  300  hands  em 
ployed,  principally  Irishmen.  Delightful  weather 
for  traveling. 

Friday,  Oct.  8. — Left  Gettysburg  5  o'clock  a.  m. 
Overtook  and  passed  many  travelers  bound  to  the 
east  and  west.  The  lands  only  tolerable.  Here 
we  had  the  first  view  of  the  mountains,  which 
present  a  romantic  and  novel  scene  to  all  who 
have  never  traveled  out  of  the  confines  of  large 
cities — or  have  never  seen  an  object  higher  than 
a  lamp-post  or  lower  than  a  gutter.  Traveled 
fifteen  miles  to  breakfast  on  the  top  of  the  moun 
tain.  The  landlord  drunk,  the  fare  bad  and  the 
house  filled  with  company  who  had  more  the  ap 
pearance  of  penitentiary  society  than  gentlemen. 
Hard  scuffle  for  breakfast.  Ran  an  old  hen  down. 
"Moll"  cut  off  the  head  with  an  ax.  An  old  sow 
and  a  starved  dog  made  a  grab  before  the  feathers 
were  stripped.  One  got  the  head,  the  other  the 
body.  Then  all  hands  were  mustered  to  join  in 
the  chase,  landlord  and  "Moll"  with  the  broom, 
the  hostler  with  his  spade  and  all  the  boys  with 
sticks  and  stones.  In  about  ten  minutes  after 
hard  fighting,  the  materials  for  breakfast  were 
recovered,  and  in  fifteen  minutes  the  old  hen  made 
her  appearance  on  the  breakfast  table,  large  as 
life.  Bad  appetite.  Made  a  light  breakfast  and 
set  out  on  our  journey  from  the  tavern  at  10 

14 


o'clock  a.  m.  Traveled  over  a  rough,  barren, 
mountainous  and  poor  country  to  McDowell's,  a 
distance  of  thirty-six  miles.  Every  traveler  must 
be  astonished  to  find  persons  settled  on  a  barren 
and  mountainous  country,  whilst  there  are  in  the 
United  States  so  many  million  acres  of  land  of 
the  first  quality  unoccupied  and  for  sale  at  so  low 
a  rate  that  a  day  laborer  can  in  one  year  with 
prudence  lay  up  enough  to  purchase  one  quarter- 
section — 160  acres. 

Saturday,  Oct.  9.— Left  McDowell's  7  o'clock 
a.  m.  Traveled  over  an  extremely  rugged,  high 
and  uneven  range  of  mountains.  The  lands  gen 
erally  so  poor  not  worth  cultivating.  Arrived  at 
Dennis',  on  the  old  road,  distance  twenty-seven 
miles,  near  the  Juniata.  Breakfasted  at  Camel 
Town,  a  small  village,  one-half  the  houses  taverns. 
Crossed  the  dreary  and  lofty  mountains  at  4 
o'clock.  This  is  called  Sideling  hill,  where  a  Mr. 
McClennan  was  robbed  on  the  3d  instant  by  the 
notorious  villain  and  robber,  D.  Lewis,  lately  par 
doned  by  Gov.  Finley  for  forgery.  McClennan 
had  no  arms,  nor  did  he  make  the  least  resistance, 
yet  one  of  Lewis'  accomplices  insisted  on  murder 
ing  him.  He  was  robbed  about  9  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  and  in  sight  of  the  house  he  breakfasted 
at.  He  was  conducted  to  their  camp,  a  little  way 
from  the  road,  threatened  with  death  if  he  spoke. 

15 


Although  the  stage  passed  full  of  passengers  and 
several  wagons  in  sight,  he  dared  not  give  the 
alarm.  After  keeping  him  in  a  state  of  suspense 
for  six  hours  and  rifling  his  letters  and  pockets 
of  a  large  sum  of  money,  they  left  him.  On  the 
8th  instant  they  were  taken  at  a  little  village  fifty 
miles  off,  and  a  large  amount  of  cash  found  on 
them — $2,800.  The  hardihood  of  this  Lewis  sur 
passes  the  boldness  of  most  robbers  of  his  day. 
When  he  and  his  two  companions  were  found 
asleep  they  were  handcuffed.  One  of  the  guards 
laid  his  pistol  on  the  table,  whilst  Lewis  was  sur 
rounded  by  twenty  persons,  and  in  a  room.  He 
knocked  out  the  candle,  seized  the  pistol,  flashed  at 
the  nearest  person,  made  his  way  through  the 
crowd,  outran  them  for  fifty  yards,  and,  when 
about  to  be  overtaken,  snapped  a  small  pistol 
which  he  had  concealed  at  his  nearest  pursuer. 
He  knocked  down  the  second  with  his  handcuffs, 
then  fell  and  was  retaken.  The  poverty,  barren 
ness,  unevenness  of  this  part  of  the  country  per 
haps  was  never  surpassed.  But  few  homes  on 
the  road.  Met  a  number  of  travelers  and  over 
took  some.  About  4  o'clock  it  commenced  rain 
ing.  Unpleasant  traveling.  Wet  to  the  skin. 
Arrived  at  the  crossing  at  dark  on  the  old  road 
two  miles  from  the  turnpike.  Tavern  kept  by 
Dennis.  Bad  house;  high  charges.  Rainy  night. 


16 


Sunday,  Oct.  10. — Left  Dennis*  6  o'clock  a.  m. 
Breakfasted  at  a  little  village  called  Bloody  Run. 
Great  many  travelers.  Poor  country.  Reached 
Bedford  at  2  o'clock.  Whilst  our  horses  were  rest 
ing  we  walked  to  the  celebrated  springs,  a  dis 
tance  of  one  and  a  half  miles. 

These  springs  are  romantically  situated,  gush 
ing  from  the  foot  of  a  mountain.  They  are  fitted 
up  with  great  taste  and  beauty  and  offer  to  the 
wearied  citizen  a  treat  of  retirement  and  enjoy 
ment.  Two  of  the  houses  are  painted  white.  They 
are  two  stories  high  and  150  feet  long.  These 
springs  are  said  to  possess  important  medicinal 
properties.  Arrived  at  Shellsburg  at  6  o'clock, 
a  distance  of  twenty-three  miles.  The  road  stony 
and  unpleasant.  Well  entertained  and  the  charge 
moderate. 

Monday,  Oct.  11.— Left  Shellsburg  at  6  o'clock. 
Poor  country,  full  of  mountains.  Crossed  the 
lofty  Allegheny.  High  ridges,  deep  valleys  and 
steep  precipices.  Roads  good  for  such  steep  moun 
tains.  Here  one  of  the  most  sublime  and  beauti 
ful  scenes  presented  itself  my  eyes  ever  witnessed. 
After  ascending  the  Allegheny  nearly  to  the  top, 
as  far  as  human  sight  could  reach,  in  every  direc 
tion,  there  were  chains  of  mountains,  occasionally 
checkered  by  small  farms  and  low  bottoms, 
covered  wth  forest  trees.  The  cleared  or  culti- 

17 


vated  land  has  lost  the  agreeable  green,  owing 
to  the  season,  but  we  were  amply  compensated 
by  the  variety  of  color,  the  beautiful  tints  from 
the  scarlet  to  the  lighter  shades,  occasionally  in 
terspersed  with  evergreens,  which  were  to  be 
found  on  the  sides  of  the  mountains  amongst 
the  great  variety  of  trees.  Yellow,  blue,  green, 
orange,  purple,  black  and  all  the  shades  be 
tween  formed  ornamental  curtains  to  those 
cloudlike  heights.  Poets  and  painters  would  have 
envied  us  the  sight.  We  continued  our  journey 
to  the  top  of  the  mountains.  Breakfasted  at 
Stolter's.  Arrived  at  Wray's  log  house  at  6  o'clock, 
a  distance  of  twenty-eight  miles.  Fare  bad, 
charges  high,  pretty  females  with  glowing  faces. 
After  resting  and  having  supped,  recollected  that 
it  was  this  day  week  that  we  left  home.  Drew  a 
long  sigh  for  those  left  behind  and  almost  in 
voluntarily  turned  our  heads  to  look  for  Phila 
delphia. 

Tuesday,  Oct.  12. — Left  Wray's  log  house  at  6 
o'clock  a.  m.  Country  poor  and  mountainous. 
Traveled  thirty-five  miles.  Overtook  some  east 
ern  and  southern  people,  men,  women  and  chil 
dren,  all  travelling  to  Illinois.  The  roads  a  little 
improved,  and  the  land  a  little  better  in  quality. 
The  towering  mountains  disappearing  and  hills 
substituted  in  their  place.  This  being  election 

18 


day,  passed  a  great  many  people  on  the  road.  All 
merry.  Great  contention  between  the  Dutch  and 
Irish.  Arrived  at  a  small  village  called  .  .  . 
where  the  election  was  held.  Saw  a  shocking 
fight,  which  ended  in  murder.  A  small  man 
knocked  down  by  his  adversary  and  his  intestines 
literally  stamped  out.  I  pressed  through  the 
crowd,  and  insisted  on  bleeding  the  unfortunate 
young  man.  Just  as  I  was  about  to  open  a  vein  his 
senses  returned.  He  begged  I  would  not  bleed 
him,  as  he  had  never  been  bled.  I  declined  the 
operation.  He  died  on  the  14th  instant.  Left  the 
election  and  arrived  at  a  trifling  village  called 
Adams  Town,  where  we  overtook  a  number  of 
travelers  for  the  west.  Left  Adams  Town  6 
o'clock  a.  m.,  and  arrived  at  Pittsburg  at  11 
o'clock,  Hunters'  tavern.  In  approaching  this 
dirty  hole  I  felt  the  height  of  disappointment. 
Pittsburg  is  situated  in  a  valley  surrounded  by 
hills  and  mountains.  It  is  placed  a  short  distance 
above  the  junction  of  the  Allegheny  and  Mononga- 
hela  rivers,  to  form  the  Ohio,  over  which  there 
are  two  neat  and  lengthy  bridges,  built  on  Wern- 
wag's  plan.  In  approaching  Pittsburg  the  trav 
eler  would  suppose  the  town  was  laid  in  ashes  by 
fire.  The  surrounding  heights,  its  low  situation, 
the  fogs  from  the  rivers,  together  with  the  uni 
versal  use  of  stone  coal  for  fires,  added  to  the 
smoke  and  dust  from  the  large  number  of  mills 

19 


and  manufactories,  form  a  cloud  which  almost 
amounts  to  night,  and  overspreads  Pittsburg  with 
the  appearance  of  gloom  and  melancholy.  At  this 
place  we  met  a  number  of  travelers,  rich  and 
poor,  Gen.  Miller  and  suite,  straggling  play 
actors,  and  others.  Coal  dust  was  well  ground 
in  until  I  might  say  with  much  truth  that  I  did 
not  see  a  white  man  or  woman  in  the  place.  The 
more  you  wash,  the  blacker  you  get.  I  am  con 
fident  that  I  carried  some  of  this  coal  dust 
1,000  miles  in  spite  of  my  efforts  to  get  rid 
of  it.  Convenient  place  for  performing  "Zanga" 
or  "The  Moor  of  Venice."  Visited  all  the  manu 
factories  and  curiosities  of  the  place.  Their  glass 
manufactories  seem  to  excel  all  others — a  great 
treat  to  those  who  never  saw  a  bottle  blown. 
Pittsburg  in  appearance  suggests  the  idea  of 
Moscow  smoking  and  in  ruins.  It  is  a  town  of 
considerable  manufacturing  importance.  Its  in 
habitants  deserve  fortune  and  a  more  salubrious 
atmosphere  to  spend  it  in. 

Thursday,  Oct.  14. — Remained  this  day  at 
Hunters*.  Had  my  good  little  horse  shod.  Care 
less  smith  pricked  him  and  produced  temporary 
lameness. 

Friday,  Oct.  15. — Left  Pittsburg  at  7  o'clock. 
Traveled  over  a  poor  and  hilly  country  for  thirty- 

20 


six  miles.  Passed  a  few  travelers  bound  to  Ohio. 
Remarkable  fact:  About  eight  miles  from  Steu- 
benville  passed  out  of  Pennsylvania  into  Virginia, 
out  of  Virginia  into  Ohio  in  the  short  space  of 
two  hours.  Crossed  the  Ohio  river  after  night 
at  Steubenville.  Stopped  at  Jenkinson's,  an  in 
telligent,  gentlemanly,  hospitable  man.  Visited 
the  market.  Beef,  good,  6!/4  cents  a  pound. 

Saturday,  Oct.  16. — I  omitted  to  mention  that 
we,  on  the  mountains,  fell  in  with  Mr.  Cooper 
of  Philadelphia,  who  has  been  our  companion  for 
several  days.  We  had  to  part  with  him  today, 
wrhich  we  did  with  much  reluctance,  as  he  proved 
a  very  agreeable  companion.  Rainy  day,  fatigued 
by  the  broken  country,  determined  to  spend  this 
day  in  Steubenville,  a  busy  little  village  on  the 
bank  of  the  Ohio.  Purchased  a  plain  Jersey 
wagon  and  harness  for  $60. 

II. — THROUGH  OHIO  AND  KENTUCKY 

Sunday,  Oct.  18. — Myself  and  friend  proceeded 
on  our  journey.  We  arrived  at  Siers,  a  distance 
of  thirty  miles,  at  dusk,  much  relieved  by  the 
change  from  our  horses  to  the  wagon.  The  roads 
were  muddy,  the  weather  drizzly  and  the  country 
hilly.  Buildings  indifferent.  The  land  very  fer- 

21 


tile  and  black.  Trees  uncommonly  tall.  Passed 
the  little  village  of  Cadis.  In  this  country  a 
tavern,  a  store,  a  smith  shop  and  two  or  three 
cabins  make  a  town.  Passed  ten  or  fifteen  travel 
ers.  Great  contrast  between  the  quality  of  the 
land  from  Chambersburg  to  Pittsburg,  and  that 
which  we  have  already  traveled  over  from  Steu- 
benville  in  Ohio. 

Monday,  Oct.  19.— Left  Siers  at  6  o'clock  a.  m. 
The  morning  fair  and  cold.  Roads  extremely 
rough.  Country  fertile,  but  hilly.  Log  cabins, 
ugly  women  and  tall  timber.  Passed  a  little  flour 
ishing  village  called  Freeport,  settled  by  foreign 
ers.  Yankee  Quakers  and  mechanics.  Remark 
able,  with  two  taverns  in  the  village,  there  was 
nothing  fit  to  drink,  not  even  good  water.  The 
corn  fields  in  the  woods  among  dead  trees  and 
the  corn  very  fine.  We  arrived  at  Adairs,  a  dis 
tance  of  twenty-seven  miles,  at  6  o'clock  p.  m. 
Passed  some  peddlers  and  a  few  travelers.  Value 
of  land  from  Steubenville  to  Adairs  from  $2  to 
$30  per  acre.  Lots  in  Freeport,  eighteen  months 
old,  from  $30  to  $100.  This  day  being  Monday 
and  the  end  of  the  second  week  since  leaving 
home,  our  feelings  were  warm  and  our  hearts  beat 
high  for  those  that  are  dear  and  behind  us. 


22 


Tuesday,  Oct.  20.— Left  Adairs  at  6  o'clock 
a.  m.  The  country  extremely  hilly  and  not  quite 
so  fertile.  Independent  people  in  log  cabins. 
They  make  their  own  clothes,  sugar  and  salt,  and 
paint  their  own  signs.  They  picture  a  lion  like 
a  dove,  a  cat  like  a  terrapin,  and  Gen.  Washing 
ton  like  a  bird's  nest.  Salt  wells  and  sugar 
orchards  are  common  in  this  country.  Steep 
hills,  frightful  precipices,  little  or  no  water,  and 
even  a  scarcity  of  new  whisky.  Ragged  and  ig 
norant  children  and  but  little  appearance  of  in 
dustry.  Met  a  number  of  travelers  inclining  to 
the  east,  and  overtook  a  larger  number  than  usual 
bound  to  the  land  of  promise.  The  evening  being 
rainy,  the  roads  soon  became  muddy.  We  ar 
rived  at  Silver's  Travelers'  Rest  at  6  o'clock. 
Distance  twenty-nine  miles.  Passed  a  little  vil 
lage  called  Cambridge. 

Wednesday,  Oct.  21— Left  Silver's  at  7  o'clock 
and  breakfasted  at  Zanesville,  a  very  growing 
and  flourishing  village.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Muskingum  river,  which  is  navigable  for  flat- 
bottomed  boats.  Zanesville  is  a  lively  and  busy 
little  town.  There  are  several  mills  and  manu 
factories  in  and  at  the  place.  Neat  bridges  and  a 
canal  cut  at  great  labor  and  expense  through  a 
solid  rock  for  a  considerable  distance,  by  which 
very  important  water  power  is  gained.  Left 

23 


Zanesville  and  traveled  twenty-three  miles  to  a 
village  called  Somerset.  The  country  very  hilly 
and  the  lands  not  so  fertile  as  those  met  with 
near  Cadis.  Rain  continues.  Roads  extremely 
slippery.  Met  and  overtook  about  sixty  travelers, 
many  on  foot — Scotch,  Irish,  and  Yankees.  Oats, 
25  cents;  butter,  12 V£  cents;  brandy,  50  cents 
a  half-pint ;  hay,  $8  a  ton. 

Thursday,  Oct.  22.— Left  Somerset  at  7  o'clock 
a.  m.  Dull,  drizzly  weather.  Deep  roads.  Horse 
lame  in  consequence  of  bad  shoeing  in  Pittsburg. 
Heart  a  little  heavy.  Thought  of  home.  Rallied 
again  and  arrived  at  a  neat  little  town  at  the 
foot  of  a  hill.  It  is  called  New  Lancaster.  Dis 
tance,  eighteen  miles.  Stopped  on  the  road  for 
refreshment  and  found  a  Pennsylvania  family 
whose  kindness  and  hospitality  deserve  mention, 
as  we  had  been  denied  water  and  sometimes  other 
refreshments  by  the  almost  wild  inhabitants  west 
of  Pittsburg  to  this  place.  Some  brick  houses 
and  a  few  neat  frame  dwellings  to  be  seen  in  the 
last  two  days'  ride. 

Friday,  Oct.  23— Left  New  Lancaster  at  8 
o'clock  and  arrived  at  Chillicothe,  a  distance  of 
thirty-four  miles.  Passed  some  elegant  farms 
and  some  neat  dwellings.  The  people  appear 
more  polite  and  better  educated.  Chillicothe  is 

24 


situated  on  the  Sciota,  a  stream  navigable  for 
flat-bottomed  boats.  The  bridge  over  the  Sciota 
is  long,  substantial  and  handsome.  Chillicothe 
is  a  town  of  considerable  business  for  its  size. 
One  of  the  branches  of  the  United  States  bank  is 
at  this  place.  The  bank  was  entered  lately  by  a 
man  named  Harper,  acting  under  the  authority 
of  the  state,  and  a  large  amount  of  money  was 
taken  out.  Harper  and  his  attendants  in  gaol. 
Mob  threatens  to  release  them.  Bank  of  the 
United  States  and  all  its  branches  are  much 
abused  by  the  inhabitants  and  some  very  impu 
dent  threats  made.  When  the  bank  was  entered 
by  Harper  no  resistance  was  made  by  its  officers. 
Passed  Tarlton  and  Kingston,  two  inconsiderable 
villages. 

Saturday,  Oct.  24— Left  Chillicothe  at  7  o'clock 
a.  m.  Arrived  at  Sinking  Springs,  a  little 
village,  after  traveling  a  distance  of  thirty-three 
miles.  Passed  over  some  rich  bottoms,  neat  farms 
and  very  fertile  prairies.  A  few  poor  ridges, 
part  level,  part  mountainous.  People  look  healthy, 
but  are  extremely  impudent  and  lazy.  Game  is 
abundant  deer,  turkeys,  partridges  and  squirrels. 

Sunday,  Oct.  25. — Left  Sinking  Springs  at  7 
o'clock  a.  m.  Traveled  to  West  Union,  a  little 
village.  Distance  twenty-three  miles.  Lands  of 
three  qualities,  broken,  barren  and  mountainous. 

25 


Miserable  log  huts.  Inhabitants  more  polite  and 
civil.  Crossed  Brush  creek  at  the  foot  of  a  small 
mountain.  At  this  place  met  some  travelers, 
among  them  some  Philadelphians.  The  inhabi 
tants  in  this  part  of  the  country  generally  emi 
grants.  Real  Ohios,  real  savages  in  appearance 
and  manners,  destitute  of  every  degree  of  polite 
ness.  Not  uncommon  for  a  man  to  follow  three 
or  four  occupations.  For  example,  John  Noble 
follows  both  tailoring  and  saddlering.  My  bar 
ber  is  also  a  waiter  on  the  table,  assistant  cook 
and  hostler.  In  this  town  one  man  is  a  lawyer,  a 
merchant  and  an  apothecaiy. 

Monday,  Oct.  26.— Left  West  Union  at  10 
o'clock  a.  m.  My  friend  having  business  here,  we 
lost  one  day.  Traveled  over  a  poor,  hilly  and 
mountainous  country  for  seventeen  miles  and  ar 
rived  at  Limestone.  Crossed  the  Ohio  in  a  horse- 
boat  and  landed  at  Maysville,  Ky.,  at  5  o'clock 
p.  m,,  bidding  a  willing  adieu  to  Ohio,  not  leaving 
behind  a  single  individual  whom  we  ever  wished 
to  see  again.  I  must  confess  from  the  many 
favorable  representations  made  of  the  habits, 
manners  and  state  of  society  and  quality  of  the 
lands  in  the  state  of  Ohio,  I  was  prepared  to  meet 
a  different  soil  and  a  different  people  from  those 
just  left-  Before  I  take  a  final  leave  of  Ohio  I 
must  mention  an  occurrence  that  transpired  a 

26 


few  days  previous  to  our  arrival  in  New  Lan 
caster.  Ten  or  fifteen  friendly  Indians  were 
traveling  from  near  New  York  to  visit  their  red 
brethren  in  the  west.  They  were  poor,  but  peace 
able  and  well  behaved.  When  they  were  within 
about  twenty-five  miles  of  New  Lancaster  three 
of  the  Indians  were  unable  to  keep  up  with  the 
leading  party,  a  man,  a  young  squaw  and  a  child. 
Those  unoffending  and  unfortunate  people  were 
waylaid  by  three  monsters  in  human  shape,  ruf 
fians  belonging  to  the  neighborhood.  They  lay 
hid  until  those  three  Indians  got  in  a  rake,  and 
then  fired  upon  them,  intending  to  kill  all  at  the 
same  shot.  The  child  and  man  escaped  unhurt, 
but  the  unfortunate  female  had  her  thigh  broken 
and  received  a  ball  in  the  abdomen.  No  hope  was 
entertained  of  her  recovery.  The  villains  were 
taken  and  committed  to  prison.  The  only  reason 
given  by  them  for  committing  this  extraordinary 
outrage  was  that  during  the  war  the  Indians 
had  murdered  in  battle  some  of  their  connections 
or  relatives. 

Tuesday,  Oct.  27. — Maysville  is  a  growing  lit 
tle  village,  situated  on  the  Ohio  and  reaching  in 
a  southerly  direction  to  the  foot  of  a  small  moun 
tain.  Left  Maysville  at  6  o'clock  a.  m.  and  ar 
rived  four  miles  beyond  the  Blue  Licks  at  5 
o'clock,  a  distance  of  thirty  miles.  Passed  Wash- 

27 


ington,  May  Licks  and  some  smaller  villages. 
Some  good  land,  some  very  poor.  Country  moun 
tainous  and  stony.  Great  difficulty  in  obtaining 
meat  or  drink  during  the  day,  although  taverns 
are  plenty.  The  Blue  Licks  are  rude,  unculti 
vated,  stony  barrens,  poor  beyond  description 
and  extremely  difficult  to  travel  over.  Passed 
several  dead  horses  on  the  road.  An  infectious 
disease  called  the  sore  tongue  had  produced  their 
deaths,  and  was  to  be  found  at  every  stable  for 
hundreds  of  miles.  Men,  cows,  hogs  and  sheep 
were  subject  to  it.  Being  tired,  hungry  and  dis 
appointed  in  the  appearance  of  the  country,  I 
retired  to  bed  early.  On  the  25th  inst.  the  ground 
was  covered  with  snow.  Little  or  no  rain  had  fal 
len  in  this  part  of  the  country  for  near  six 
months.  Many  creeks  nearly  dry.  Great  diffi 
culty  in  obtaining  water  to  drink.  Passed  some 
salt  springs  and  wells.  Salt  $2.50  per  bushel, 
coffee  50  cents  per  pound.  Those  prices  will  sound 
very  high  to  the  merchants  of  Philadelphia. 

Wednesday,  Oct.  28. — Left  Artis'  tavern,  thirty 
miles  from  Maysville,  at  7  o'clock  a.  m.  Traveled 
over  a  very  fertile  country,  a  distance  of  seven 
teen  miles,  and  arrived  at  a  neat  little  town  called 
Paris.  Passed  some  handsome  houses.  Saw 
many  negroes.  They  were  ragged,  foolish,  and, 
in  appearance,  miserable.  Paris,  as  a  town,  has 

28 


some  claim  to  beauty.  It  is  placed  on  an  emi 
nence.  Many  of  the  houses  are  brick  and  of 
handsome  shape.  There  is  constantly  that  stir 
and  bustle  which  denotes  a  place  of  business. 
The  country  around  is  fertile,  and,  although  there 
is  no  navigable  stream  near,  the  eye  is  prevented 
from  falling  too  heavily  on  the  neighboring  fields 
and  valleys  by  the  winding  of  a  small  stream, 
upon  which  there  is  a  busy-looking  mill. 

"How  often  have  I  paused  on  every  charm — 
The  sheltered  cot,  the  cultivated  farm, 
The  never-failing  brook,  the  busy  mill, 
The  decent  church  that  topped  the  neighboring 
hill." 

In  this  little  town  we  met  a  hearty  welcome. 
The  inhabitants  are  polite  and  hospitable.  The 
singular  variety  which  is  to  be  found  in  the 
human  family  by  a  traveler  is  difficult  to  be  de 
scribed.  Indeed,  every  hundred  miles  would  take 
a  small  volume.  Straggling  play-actors  and  tight 
rope  dancers  had  found  their  way  to  Paris,  be 
sides  other  amusements  which  were  to  be  found 
in  this  sprightly  little  town,  which  had  a  tendency 
to  make  our  time  pass  very  agreeably.  On  Wed 
nesday  night  at  11  o'clock,  I  was  called  to  visit 
Miss  Craughan,  sister  of  Col.  Craughan,  an  old 
acquaintance.  I  found  her  dangerously  ill  with 
quinsy.  Large  bleedings  and  some  other  medi- 

29 


cines  gave  relief.  Was  compelled  to  leave  her 
and  proceed  on  my  journey.  Heard  of  her  re 
covery.  Interesting  lady. 

Thursday,  Oct.  29. — Left  Thorgmorton's  tavern 
at  9  o'clock  a.  m.  Good  roads ;  fair  weather ;  gen 
erous  people;  good  land  and  neat  dwellings. 
Dined  in  Lexington,  a  town  of  considerable  size, 
and  a  place  of  great  business.  Saw  large  num 
bers  of  country  people  dealing  in  stores.  Met 
and  overtook  but  few  travelers  the  last  three  or 
four  days.  Traveled  this  day  thirty-two  miles  to 
Cole's.  The  lands  not  so  fertile  and  a  little  hilly. 

Friday,  Oct.  30.— Left  Cole's  at  6  o'clock  a.  m. 
Breakfasted  at  Frankfort,  the  seat  of  the  gov 
ernment  of  Kentucky.  It  is  situated  in  a  deep 
valley  near  a  stream,  surrounded  with  high  and 
uneven  hills,  and  at  a  distance,  from  its  shape 
and  situation,  it  resembles  a  garden  laid  off  in 
squares.  A  very  handsome  bridge,  neatly 
painted,  is  thrown  across  the  Kentucky  river, 
which,  together  with  some  public  buildings 
erected  with  considerable  taste,  assist  much  in 
enlivening  and  adding  beauty  and  elegance  to 
the  appearance  of  the  town.  Left  Frankfort  at 
9  o'clock.  Crossed  the  Kentucky  river,  which  was 
only  three  feet  wide,  owing  to  the  uncommon 
drought.  Foot  passengers  were  crossing  on  a  rail. 

30 


Passed  through  Shelbyville,  a  small  village. 
Many  creeks,  rivers  and  brandies  entirely  dry. 
Every  animal  suffering  for  water.  The  farmers 
compelled  to  cart  a  sufficient  quantity  to  support 
life,  many  miles.  No  water  to  be  obtained  in  the 
village  for  our  horses.  Fortunately  we  were 
enabled  to  purchase  some  on  the  road.  Traveled 
twenty-nine  miles  to  Smith's.  Lands  rich. 
Country  broken  on  the  old  road.  Deep  valleys. 
Frightful  precipices.  Beech  woods.  Large  trees. 
Good  corn.  Warm  and  dry  weather. 

Saturday,  Oct.  31. — Left  Smith's  at  7  o'clock 
a.  m.  Traveled  over  a  very  rich  and  flat  country. 
Passed  through  Middletown,  and  at  4  o'clock 
arrived  at  Louisville,  after  traveling  twenty- 
eight  miles.  This  day  being  Saturday,  and  hav 
ing  met  some  old  friends  and  acquaintances,  a 
party  was  made  up  to  visit  the  Louisville  theater. 
Philadelphia  being  the  theater  for  all  great  per 
formers,  curiosity  was  on  tip-toe  to  view  the 
players  of  Louisville.  The  theater  is  a  neat  little 
building.  It  was  but  thinly  attended,  owing  to 
the  pressure  of  the  times.  The  play  was  "Wives 
as  They  Were  and  Maids  as  They  Are,"  Mr. 
Drake  and  Mrs.  Grochong  supporting  the  princi 
pal  characters.  Their  persons,  features,  voices 
and  gestures  were  fine,  appearing  to  possess  the 
nicest  feelings  and  tenderest  sympathies,  and, 

31 


in  my  opinion,  they  were  well  suited  to  a  better 
stage.  The  play  better  performed  than  expected. 
Indeed,  I  may  say  well  performed,  if  I  may  be 
permitted  to  add  there  was  more  than  one  of  the 
actors  who  was  unfeeling,  unmeaning,  made  of 
wood  and  more  like  a  gate-post  than  an  animated 
being.  This  had  the  happiest  of  effects,  for  after 
shedding  tears  of  grief  at  interesting  parts  of 
the  play  they  were  kept  flowing  with  laughter 
at  those  ridiculous  performers  making  tragedy 
into  comedy.  Louisville  is  a  flourishing  town 
immediately  on  the  banks  of  the  Ohio.  The  town 
and  business  principally  confined  to  one  street. 
The  inhabitants  are  polite,  hospitable  and  live 
fast. 

Sunday,  Nov.  1. — This  day  was  spent  in  visit 
ing  a  family  near  Louisville,  friends  of  my  youth 
ful  days,  whom  I  had  not  seen  for  eighteen  years. 
As  I  approached  the  dwelling,  happy  days  that 
are  never  to  return,  pleasant  hours,  youthful, 
happy  and  blooming  faces,  joyous  scenes  and 
many  dear  moments,  flashed  suddenly  across  my 
mind.  But  judge  of  my  disappointment  on  meet 
ing  the  remains  of  this  amiable  family.  I  will 
not  attempt  to  express  feelings  that  in  the  human 

language  know  no  description.     Mrs.  M ,  a 

truly  good  woman,  had  been  borne  to  that  shore 
"from  whence  no  traveler  returns."  Her  daugh- 

32 


ter,  who  was  the  admiration  of  all  that  knew  her, 
soon  followed.  The  remains  of  the  family  which 
eighteen  years  ago  was  young  and  fashionable, 
elegant  and  beautiful,  had  become  sedate,  crooked, 
wrinkled  and  even  gray.  To  witness  the  ravages 
of  time  produced  a  gloom  which  lasted  several 
days.  I  took  an  affectionate  leave  of  them,  never 
expecting  to  see  them  again. 

Tuesday,  Nov.  3. — Remained  in  Louisville 
Monday  and  part  of  today.  Left  Aleen's  the  2d. 
Passed  through  Shipping  Port,  on  the  bank  of 
the  Ohio,  two  and  one-half  miles  below  Louisville. 
A  very  promising  little  village.  Twelve  or  thir 
teen  steamboats  lying  at  this  place  aground,  ow 
ing  to  the  unusual  drought.  Curiosity  induced 
me  to  go  on  board  the  largest  steamboat  in  the 
world,  lying  at  this  place.  She  is  called  the 
United  States,  and  is  owned  by  a  company  of 
gentlemen.  I  have  taken  down  her  dimensions: 
Length  of  keel,  165  feet  8  inches;  depth  of  hold, 
11  feet  3  inches;  breadth  of  beam  and  girder,  56 
feet;  length  on  deck,  176  feet  8  inches;  breadth 
of  beam  without  girder,  37  feet.  This  mammoth 
boat  has  eight  boilers  and  elegant  accommoda 
tions  for  a  large  number  of  passengers.  Many 
of  the  steamships  lying  at  this  place  are  built 
on  improved  plans  and  are  very  handsome.  We 
crossed  the  Ohio  at  a  point  where  it  is  three- 

33 


quarters  of  a  mile  wide.  Passed  through  New  Al 
bany,  Ind.,  a  little  village  inhabited  by  tavern- 
keepers  and  mechanics.  Traveled  to  Miller's,  a 
distance  of  six  miles  over  the  knobs.  Country 
very  much  broken.  Some  steep  hills  and  sugar- 
loaf  knobs.  The  woods  being  on  fire,  a  scene  truly 
sublime  presented  itself  at  night.  The  lands  in 
different.  Weather  warm  and  dry.  Passed  many 
travelers  bound  to  the  west,  and  met  three  or 
four  wagons  with  families  returning  from  the 
promised  land.  Slept  in  a  house  without  glass 
in  the  windows  and  no  fastenings  to  the  doors. 
The  inhabitants  impudent  and  lazy  beyond  ex 
ample.  Supped  on  cabbage,  turnips,  pickles,  beets, 
beefsteak  made  of  pickled  beef,  rye  coffee  and 
sage  tea.  The  people  of  Indiana  differ  widely 
from  Kentuckians  in  habits,  manners  and  even 
dialect.  Whilst  hospitality,  politeness  and  good 
sense  characterize  Kentuckians,  ignorance,  im 
pudence  and  laziness  has  stamped  the  Indianians. 


III. — A  BROTHERHOOD  OF  CUTTHROATS 

Wednesday,  Nov.  3,  1819.— Left  Miller's  tavern 
at  7  o'clock  and  arrived  at  Squire  Chambers'  at 
6  o'clock,  after  traveling  a  distance  of  thirty-six 
miles.  Passed  a  trifling  village,  Fredericksburg ; 
also  Greenville.  A  poor,  barren,  deserted  country. 
For  ten  miles,  stony,  poor,  mountainous  and 

34 


naked.  Land  a  little  better.  Miserable  huts, 
poor  accommodations,  cabin  taverns,  and  high 
charges.  Crossed  Blue  river.  Every  man  his 
own  hostler  and  steward.  Plenty  of  game — deer, 
turkeys,  etc.  Inhabitants  generally  possess  a 
smaller  share  of  politeness  than  any  met  with 
before. 

Thursday,  Nov.  4. — Left  Squire  Chambers' 
(who  is  only  member  of  the  assembly,  by  the  by) 
at  7  o'clock  a.  m.  Arrived  at  Lewis'  at  6  o'clock, 
a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles.  Passed  a  little 
village  called  Peola.  The  fact  that  this  part  of 
Indiana  is  a  late  purchase  by  the  United  States, 
accounts  for  its  towns  being  so  inconsiderable 
and  being  made  up  of  log  houses.  The  lands  here 
are  very  fertile,  the  country  mountainous  and 
broken.  Traveled  twenty-five  miles  through  woods 
and  passed  but  four  houses.  With  great  difficulty 
obtained  water  for  our  horses.  In  the  midst  of 
one  of  those  long  and  thick  pieces  of  woods,  we 
passed  one  of  the  most  miserable  huts  ever  seen — a 
house  built  out  of  slabs  without  a  nail ;  the  pieces 
merely  laid  against  a  log  pen  such  as  pigs  are  com 
monly  kept  in,  a  dirt  floor,  no  chimney.  Indeed,  the 
covering  would  be  a  bad  one  in  the  heat  of  sum 
mer,  and,  unfortunately,  the  weather  at  this  time 
is  very  severe  for  the  season  of  the  year.  This 
small  cabin  contained  a  young  and  interesting 

35 


female  and  her  two  shivering  and  almost  starving 
children,  all  of  whom  were  bare-headed  and  with 
their  feet  bare.  There  was  a  small  bed,  one 
blanket  and  a  few  potatoes.  One  cow  and  one  pig 
(who  appeared  to  share  in  their  misfortunes) 
completed  the  family,  except  for  the  husband,  who 
was  absent  in  search  of  bread.  Fortunately  for 
the  dear  little  children,  we  had  in  our  carriage 
some  bread,  cheese,  toddy,  etc.,  which  we  divided 
with  them  with  much  heartfelt  satisfaction.  In 
this  situation  the  woman  was  polite,  smiled  and 
appeared  happy.  She  gave  us  water  to  drink, 
which  had  been  refused  to  us  by  persons  on  the 
road  several  times  during  the  day.  What  a  les 
son  for  many  of  the  unhappy  ladies  that  inhabit 
large  cities,  whose  husbands  are  slaves  to  pro 
cure  all  the  luxuries  of  life,  a  fine  house,  carpeted 
floors,  elegant  furniture,  fine  carriages  and 
horses,  gay  and  cheerful  company,  and  a  smooth 
brick  pavement  or  marble  to  walk  upon!  Yet 
they  are  too  often  dissatisfied,  and  are  sighing 
for  that  which  cannot  be  obtained.  Could  they 
but  contrast  their  situation  with  this  ragged,  suf 
fering  and  delicate  female,  they  would  have  just 
cause  to  be  happy,  and  would  be  under  the  strong 
conviction  that  Providence  does  not  interfere 
with  the  common  affairs  of  this  life.  Traveled 
over  excellent  lands  not  taken  up  which  could  be 
cleared  with  very  little  labor. 

36 


Friday,  Nov.  5. — Left  Mr.  Sears'  at  7  o'clock, 
after  having  slept  in  a  cabin  with  three  wagons. 
My  friend  and  self  treated  civilly  by  the  family. 
The  house  not  close  enough  to  keep  the  cats  and 
dogs  out.  Traveled  over  an  extremely  mountain 
ous  country  to  White  river  (east  fork),  where  a 
town  was  laid  out  last  May.  Promising  little 
place.  Several  houses  building  together,  with  the 
industrious  appearance  of  saw  and  grist  mills, 
give  it  the  appearance  of  a  place  of  business.  Lit 
tle  town  is  called  Hindoostan.  In  this  part  of 
the  country  the  woods  are  large,  the  hills  bold 
and  lofty,  and  there  is  an  abundance  of  bears, 
wolves,  wildcats,  panthers,  etc.  Thousands  of 
acres  of  land  of  the  first  quality  are  unsettled 
and  to  be  purchased  at  from  $2.50  to  $5  an  acre. 
In  crossing  White  river  we  had  to  descend  a 
very  steep  precipice  above  the  falls,  in  effecting 
which  my  friend,  Dr.  Hill,  who  happened  to  be 
driving  our  little  carriage,  was  thrown  head 
foremost  into  the  river.  Part  of  our  baggage  fol 
lowed  him,  and  the  carriage  was  very  near  up 
setting.  However,  we  forded  this  elegant  stream, 
which  is  200  yards  wide,  without  much  difficulty. 
After  halting  a  few  minutes  on  the  bank  to  ex 
amine  our  bruises  and  adjust  our  baggage,  we 
proceeded  on  our  journey.  Traveled  a  distance 
of  eighteen  miles  to  the  west  branch  of  White 
river,  which  we  forded  without  risk,  the  bottom 

37 


being  hard  and  rocky.  Traveled  over  a  fertile 
country  four  miles  to  Steenz,  making  a  distance 
of  thirty-four  miles.  At  this  dirty  hovel,  with 
one  room  and  a  loft,  formed  by  placing  boards 
about  three  inches  apart,  ten  travelers  slept. 
There  were  thirteen  in  family,  besides  two  calves, 
making  in  all,  with  my  friend  and  self,  twenty- 
three  whites,  one  negro  and  two  calves. 

Saturday,  Nov.  6. — Supped  on  pumpkins,  cab 
bages,  rye  coffee  without  sugar,  bones  of  venison, 
salted  pickles,  etc. — all  in  the  midst  of  crying 
children,  dirt,  filth  and  misery.  The  last  enter 
tainment  made  the  first  serious  unfavorable  im 
pression  on  my  mind  relative  to  the  west.  Trav 
eled  six  miles  to  breakfast  and  to  entertain  an 
idea  of  starving.  No  water,  no  food  fit  to  eat, 
dusty  roads  and  constantly  enveloped  in  a  cloud 
of  smoke,  owing  to  the  woods  and  prairies  being 
on  fire  for  100  miles.  Breakfasted  on  sound  pro 
visions  for  a  rarity  and  felt  a  little  refreshed. 
This  part  of  Indiana  is  rich  and  valuable.  Corn 
and  oats  50  cents  a  bushel.  My  good  little  horse 
being  sick,  my  usual  flow  of  spirits  commenced 
a  retreat.  However,  they  were  soon  rallied  again 
after  a  few  long  sighs  for  those  that  are  dear 
and  far  from  me.  Arrived  at  Vincennes,  on  the 
Wabash,  a  bold  and  handsome  river,  the  size  of 
the  Schuylkill.  Vincennes,  an  ancient  town,  is 

38 


small,  ugly  and  meanly  built,  although  beauti 
fully  situated.  Its  inhabitants  are  French,  Ameri 
cans,  Indians — and,  in  short,  persons  from  the 
four  corners  of  the  earth.  Indian  mounds  or 
small  round  hills  are  common  in  this  country. 
They  are  believed  to  be  the  work  of  art,  and  from 
bones  and  so  forth  which  have  been  found  in 
them  are  supposed  to  have  been  receptacles  for 
the  dead,  when  none  but  the  footsteps  of  the 
savage  was  to  be  traced  in  these  forests.  We  are 
now  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Shakers  and  Har- 
monites,  whom  we  intend  to  visit  and  give  a  cor 
rect  account  of.  Very  much  revived  this  day, 
having  lived  well.  Necessity  is  often  the  mother 
of  invention.  Yolk  of  egg,  flour  and  water  mixed 
is  a  good  substitute  for  milk,  and  is  often  used  in 
coffee  in  this  country.  Rye  is  frequently  substi 
tuted  for  coffee  and  sage  tea  in  place  of  the  im 
perial. 

Sunday.  Nov.  7. — Left  Vincennes  at  7  o'clock. 
Crossed  the  meandering  stream,  Wabash,  into 
Illinois.  This  river  abounds  in  fish,  ducks  and 
geese.  Traveled  thirty-seven  miles  over  rich  and 
elegant  prairies.  Passed  but  very  few  houses  in 
this  distance.  Our  poor  horses  and  ourselves  al 
most  famished  for  water.  Traveled  eighteen 
miles  without  a  drop,  and  then  compelled  to  use 
it  out  of  a  stagnant  pool,  where  thousands  of  in- 

39 


sects  considered  the  water  private  property.  Ar 
rived  at  McDermott's,  on  the  Fox  river.  Ob 
tained  a  list  of  cutthroats  and  murderers,  whose 
names  are  as  follows  on  the  list:  Gatewood, 
Rutherford,  Grimberry,  Cain,  Young,  Portleth- 
waite,  etc.  This  chain  of  villains  extended  for 
eighty  miles  through  all  the  dreary  and  lonesome 
prairies.  We  were  informed  that  when  they 
were  not  engaged  in  robbing  or  murdering  they 
were  very  industriously  employed  in  manufactur 
ing  bank  notes,  which  they  imposed  on  travelers 
at  every  opportunity.  It  may  be  worthy  of  re 
mark  that  all  the  country  for  forty  miles  around 
where  these  banditti  have  taken  possession  be 
longs  to  the  United  States.  For  the  convenience 
of  travelers,  a  new  road  has  been  made  through 
this  country,  instead  of  going  by  Shawneetown, 
and  those  villains  have  posted  themselves  along 
the  road  under  the  name  of  tavernkeepers, 
watching  for  their  prey  whenever  it  may  pass. 
Indeed,  I  conceive  it  impossible  for  any  man  who 
has  cash  enough  to  make  him  worth  killing  to 
travel  this  road  alone.  Called  to  see  Gatewood, 
the  first  man  on  the  list  of  cutthroats.  He  was 
from  home.  Saw  his  wife,  a  handsome,  young 
dejected-looking  woman,  who  appeared  very  un 
easy  at  her  husband's  being  inquired  for  by  a 
man  almost  as  well  armed  and  not  much  out  of  the 
style  of  Robinson  Crusoe.  Saw  a  bloody  cravat 

40 


on  the  end  of  the  log  of  which  his  house  was  built. 
We  intend  to  call  and  see  the  balance  of  the  fra 
ternity  out  of  curiosity.  Traveled  over  prairies 
just  burned  and  through  woods  on  fire.  Smoke 
and  dust,  together  with  the  want  of  water,  almost 
produced  suffocation,  families  sending  miles  for 
water  to  drink.  The  prairies  extend  for  miles, 
indeed,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  level  as  a 
plank  floor.  The  soil  generally  is  a  bed  of  manure, 
the  land  uncultivated  and  without  any  person  to 
claim  it.  The  few  inhabitants  found  in  this  part 
of  the  country  are  impolite,  lazy  and  disobliging. 
Passed  many  families  traveling  to  the  west,  and 
met  a  few  bound  to  the  east.  There  has  been  no 
rain  in  this  part  of  the  country  for  near  seven 
months.  Many  of  the  farmers  have  lost  stock  in 
consequence  of  the  drought.  A  few  years  ago  this 
part  of  Illinois  was  inhabited  only  by  the  rude 
and  uncivilized  savage.  The  scalping  knife  and 
tomahawk,  graced  their  bark  dwellings  and  were 
often  used  in  the  most  inhuman  manner.  The 
murdering  of  women  and  children  whom  they 
viewed  as  their  enemies  was  not  an  uncommon 
occurrence.  But  who  could  have  believed  that 
when  the  red  men  of  the  forest  had  retired  from 
this  beautiful  country  their  places  would  have 
been  supplied  by  persons  whose  characters  would 
be  softened  by  the  appellation  of  savage — peni 
tentiary  outcasts  and  murderers?  Who  could 

41 


believe  that  a  human  being  could  be  so  depraved 
as  to  fall  upon  a  defenseless  and  unoffending 
traveler  and  murder  him  under  the  pretence  of 
sheltering  him  from  the  storm  and  giving  him 
a  hearty  welcome  at  his  table?  Who  could  be 
lieve  that  even  devils  in  human  shape  could  cut 
the  throats  of  two  traveling  strangers  to  obtain 
two  watches,  $80  and  a  pair  of  saddle-bags?  I 
shudder  at  the  blackness  of  the  crime.  It  oc 
curred  only  yesterday,  and  we  are  at  this  moment 
near  the  spot  where  the  horrid  deed  was  com 
mitted.  Two  other  murders  have  lately  been  com 
mitted  near  this  place.  A  stranger  was  found 
hung  on  a  tree  and  a  traveler  was  murdered  near 
Shawneetown  by  the  same  men  whose  names  have 
been  mentioned. 

During  last  summer  a  traveler  was  found  mur 
dered  near  one  of  those  prairies,  but  he  had  been 
dead  so  long  it  was  impossible  to  ascertain  who 
he  was. 

Monday,  Nov.  8. — Left  Dermott's  at  7  o'clock. 
Crossed  a  prairie  five  miles  wide.  Met  with  a 
new  species  of  game  called  prairie  hens.  They 
are  very  much  like  the  pheasant,  and  I  am  of  the 
opinion  they  are  the  grouse.  Plenty  of  deer  and 
turkeys.  Crossed  a  prairie  twelve  miles  broad 
and  arrived  at  the  house  of  Rutherford,  the  sec 
ond  man  on  the  cutthroat  list.  We  had  time 

42 


enough  to  pass  this  house,  but  having  a  list  of 
desperadoes,  and  being  disappointed  in  seeing 
Gatewood,  curiosity  induced  us  to  spend  the  night. 
This  was  a  piece  of  comedy  for  information  which 
was  near  ending  in  tradegy.  Our  traveling  party 
consisted  of  four  persons,  Dr.  Hill,  myself  and 
two  young  men,  strangers,  from  Kentucky.  As 
we  traveled  in  a  little  carriage,  and  with  a  pair 
of  horses,  we  placed  our  fellow-travelers'  bag 
gage  with  our  own,  which  made  a  considerable 
show.  On  our  arrival  a  man  dressed  like  a  Quaker 
pretended  to  be  hostler  until  he  ascertained  the 
quantity  of  our  baggage.  I  recognized  him  as  an 
engraver  from  Philadelphia,  who  had  been  a 
candidate  for  the  penitentiary  for  forgery.  We 
called  for  the  landlord,  and  were  informed  by 
Mrs.  Rutherford  that  he  was  from  home,  but  we 
could  be  well  entertained  and  made  comfortable 
in  every  way.  Mrs.  R.  is  a  young  and  beautiful 
woman,  possessing  a  delicacy  of  features  and  an 
elegance  of  shape,  but  seldom  to  be  met  with  in 
those  cabins  of  misery.  The  lily  and  the  rose 
appeared  to  vie  with  each  other  to  gain  the  as 
cendency  on  her  cheeks.  Her  teeth  were  even, 
beautifully  white  and  well  placed.  Her  hair 
curled  in  irregular  ringlets  down  her  neck.  She 
smiled  on  all.  Her  eyes  were  quick,  black,  spark 
ling  and  full  of  impudence  and  bold  and  disagree 
able  looks. 

43 


"0  woman,  if  by  simple  wile 

Thy  soul  has  strayed  from  honor's  track, 
Tis  mercy  only  can  beguile, 

By  gentle  ways,  the  wanderer  back. 
Go,  go,  be  innocent  and  live! 

The  tongues  of  men  may  wound  thee  sore, 
But  heaven  in  pity  can  forgive, 

And  bids  thee  go  and  sin  no  more. 

We  spent  our  time  very  agreeably  for  about 
two  hours.  My  friend  was  so  much  fascinated 
with  this  western  beauty  that  I  began  to  con 
clude  his  common  stock  of  gallantry  had  much 
improved  since  his  arrival  in  this  fertile  country. 
Indeed,  they  appeared  mutually  pleased  and  the 
fleeting  hours  seemed  almost  too  short  for  the 
full  enjoyment  of  each  other's  conversation.  My 
self  and  fellow-travelers  enjoyed  their  mirth  and 
jokes.  Little  did  my  friend  dream  a  frightful 
cloud  was  hovering  over  him  which  threatened 
to  darken  all  his  bright  prospects.  We  were  sud 
denly  startled  by  the  shrill  Indian  warwhoop, 
which  proceeded  from  a  thicket  near  the  house. 
It  may  not  be  amiss  to  mention  here  this  war- 
whoop  was  what  my  friend  had  never  heard  be 
fore.  It  appeared  to  pass  over  his  frame  like  an 
electrical  shock,  and  from  his  being  an  elegant 
man,  six  feet  high,  and  in  a  lover's  attitude,  he  was 
reduced  to  about  three  feet  in  height,  with  knees 

44 


as  high  as  his  chin  and  the  points  of  his  shoulders 
higher  than  his  head.  In  this  situation  he  pre- 
spired  very  freely.  We  were  not  kept  long  in  a 
state  of  suspense.  Rutherford  and  three  sturdy 
fellows,  armed,  entered  the  house,  all  half-drunk. 
They  took  no  notice  of  us,  but  eyed  our  baggage, 
\vhich  was  heaped  on  the  floor.  They  drank 
freely  of  whisky,  and  appeared  in  fine  spirits.  As 
one  of  our  companions  was  passing  a  small  log 
house,  in  which  food  was  kept,  he  heard  men 
whispering,  which  he  informed  me  of.  I  im 
mediately  got  a  candle.  Searched  the  house,  but 
did  not  see  any  person.  However,  as  I  was  re 
turning,  I  found  two  tall  men  hid  in  the  chimney, 
who,  on  being  spoken  to,  went  into  the  house, 
making  six  all  together,  and  most  of  them  very 
tall.  They  were  armed  with  rifles  and  butcher 
knives,  without  coats  or  hats,  their  sleeves  rolled 
up,  their  beards  long  and  their  faces  smutted, 
such  as  the  bravos  are  represented  in  the  play 
of  "The  Foundling  of  the  Forest."  We  had  been 
anxious  to  see  some  of  these  banditti,  but  we  did 
not  contemplate  seeing  so  large  a  company  or 
having  so  full  a  visit  from  the  fraternity.  Ruther 
ford  disguised  himself  and  denied  that  he  was 
landlord,  or  that  he  lived  at  the  place.  It  was 
not  long  before  we  were  informed  of  the  business 
of  those  devil-like  looking  visitors.  Some  of  their 
private  consultations  were  overheard.  Robbery 

45 


and  murder  was  contemplated.  They  would  fre 
quently  whisper  and  pinch  each  other,  wink,  eye 
us,  then  hunch  each  other  and  give  a  number  of 
private  signals  which  we  did  not  understand.  One 
observed  "the  trap  door  was  too  open,"  "that  the 
boards  were  too  wide  apart,"  in  a  loud  tone  of 
voice.  The  reply  was:  "By  G — ,  it  should  be 
screwed  up  tight  enough  before  morning!"  They 
often  mentioned  the  names  of  the  cut-throats  we 
had  on  our  list  as  their  particular  friends  and  as 
sociates.  They  also  spoke  of  the  two  men  who 
had  been  murdered  the  day  before,  and  acknowl 
edged  that  they  ate  their  last  meal  in  the  house 
we  were  in.  Laughed  at  the  manner  in  which 
the  throats  of  one  of  these  unfortunate  men  was 
cut,  and  many  other  circumstances  which  would 
swell  this  memorandum  too  much.  Convinced  us 
beyond  a  doubt  they  were  of  the  banditti  that  had 
been  described  to  us.  Our  own  safety  now  be 
came  a  matter  of  serious  consideration,  and  our 
party  of  four  held  a  consultation  after  the  rob 
bers'  consultation  was  over  (which  was  held  in 
the  dark  a  little  way  from  the  house).  The  two 
strangers  that  we  overtook  on  the  road  were  firm- 
spirited,  and  declared  we  would  die  side  by  side 
or  conquer  if  attacked.  I  am  almost  ashamed  to 
add  that  a  man  whom  I  have  named  as  friend  in 
my  memorandum,  whom  I  have  known  for  years, 
and  with  whom  I  had  traveled  1,000  miles,  ex- 

46 


pressed  himself  to  the  following  effect :  "By  G — , 
instead  of  joining  us  he  would  take  care  of  him 
self!"  and  insinuated  that  he  would  join  the 
strongest  side,  and  immediately  went  into  the 
house  and  placed  himself  among  the  ruffians. 


IV. — ESCAPE  FROM  THE  ROBBER  BAND 

Monday,  Nov.  8,  1819. — The  disappointment 
experienced  from  the  unmanly  conduct  of  Dr.  Hill 
had  a  happy  effect  on  our  little  company.  It 
bound  us  more  firmly  and  nearer  together,  and, 
I  may  add  with  truth,  almost  fitted  us  for  the 
field  of  battle.  The  hour  of  9  o'clock  had  now 
arrived,  the  night  uncommonly  dark  and  cloudy. 
On  our  going  into  the  house  one  of  the  strangers 
went  into  the  yard  and  gave  the  Indian  war- 
whoop  three  times  very  loud.  About  10  o'clock 
they  took  their  six  rifles,  went  into  the  yard  with 
a  candle  and  shot  them  off  one  by  one,  snuffing 
the  candle  at  forty  yards  every  shot.  They  then 
loaded  afresh,  primed  and  picked  their  flints.  A 
large  horn  was  then  taken  from  the  loft  and 
blown  distinctly  three  times  very  loud.  All  those 
signals  (which  we  had  been  told  of)  brought 
no  more  of  the  company.  They  then  dispatched 
two  of  their  own  party,  who  were  gone  until  12 
o'clock.  They  stated  to  their  comrades  "they 

47 


could  not  be  had."  It  may  be  readily  imagined, 
after  what  we  had  overhead,  seeing  such  prepara 
tions  and  observing  many  of  their  private  signals, 
being  warned  of  our  danger  previous  to  stopping 
at  the  house,  together  with  the  recent  and  cruel 
murders  which  had  been  committed,  in  a  strange 
country,  where  every  man  made  and  executed  his 
own  law  to  suit  himself — I  say  it  cannot  be  a 
matter  of  wonder  that  our  situation  began  to  put 
on  a  character  of  the  most  unpleasant  kind.  How 
ever,  we  were  well  armed,  having  pistols,  dirks, 
knives  and  a  gun,  and  were  determined,  if  neces 
sity  should  require,  to  be  murdered  in  the  house, 
and  not  to  be  dragged  into  the  woods,  there  to 
have  our  throats  cut.  It  being  a  little  after  12 
o'clock  the  bravos  proposed  to  take  a  drink  and 
lie  down  on  the  floor  to  rest,  which  they  did,  and 
upon  their  arms.  The  house  being  very  small 
they  almost  covered  the  floor  of  one  room.  The 
small  back  room  was  intended  for  us.  There  was 
no  door  to  the  partition,  and  the  logs  were  about 
six  inches  apart.  We  were  under  some  appre 
hension  that  in  case  of  an  attack  they  would  be 
able  to  fire  on  us  through  the  logs.  After  they 
were  all  still,  myself  and  companions  lay  down 
in  reach  of  each  other,  our  clothes  on,  our  dirks 
unsheathed,  the  guards  off  our  pistols  and  three 
extra  bullets  in  our  gun,  and  agreed  if  a  signal 
was  given  to  fight  the  good  fight.  I  had  like  to 

48 


have  forgotten  Dr.  Hill.  He  had  placed  himself 
on  the  far  side  of  the  bed  upon  which  I  lay  and 
had  got  out  of  the  wall  a  small  log,  but  not  of  suffi 
cient  size  in  case  of  accident  to  allow  him  to  make 
his  escape.  Although  the  evening  was  cool  the 
drops  of  sweat  stood  upon  his  forehead  as  large 
as  peas.  He  complained  of  great  pain  about  the 
kidneys  and  that  his  head  hung  loose  upon  his 
shoulders.  Knowing  those  fellows  were  expert 
at  cutting  throats,  from  their  conversation  on 
that  subject,  I  determined  to  put  them  to  as  much 
trouble  as  possible.  Took  off  my  cravat  and 
twisted  my  silk  handkerchief  and  tied  it  round  my 
neck.  In  this  situation  we  spent  the  night.  We 
lay  on  our  arms  ready  for  the  word.  But  little 
sleep.  When  they  would  move  we  did  the  same. 
If  they  coughed  we  followed  the  example.  In  this 
dreadful  way  the  night  was  spent.  I  have  no 
hesitation  of  declaring  that  if  we  had  not  been 
well  armed  or  kept  a  strict  watch  we  should  have 
been  robbed  and  murdered,  and  nothing  but  the 
fear  of  our  killing  a  part  of  them  kept  their 
hands  off.  Could  they  have  added  to  their  num 
bers  by  their  signals,  our  fate  would  have  been 
certain.  It  is  probable  the  balance  of  their  party 
was  engaged  in  some  other  enterprise.  About 
the  break  of  day  the  signal  of  rising  was  given 
by  our  visitors.  We  were  on  our  feet  in  a  min 
ute,  and  our  hands  upon  our  arms.  Three  of  them 

49 


examined  their  rifles,  and,  after  having  some 
conversation  with  their  comrades,  proceeded  up 
the  road  we  had  to  travel.  I  presumed  to  place 
themselves  behind  trees  and  fire  upon  us  without 
the  risk  of  being  killed.  We  lost  no  time  in  plac 
ing  our  baggage  in  our  carriage  and  getting  ready 
to  leave  this  robbers'  den.  After  paying  our  bill 
and  being  ready  for  a  start,  one  of  the  brother 
hood  begged  I  would  take  my  saddlebags  into  the 
house  again;  that  he  wanted  a  dose  of  medicine 
for  one  who  was  very  sick.  This  I  declined  doing, 
suspecting  his  object,  and  advised  him  to  call  on 
some  person  with  whom  he  was  better  acquainted. 
We  then  bid  adieu  to  Mr.  Rutherford,  his  family, 
the  banditti  and  the  edge  of  the  twelve-mile 
prairie.  We  had  not  traveled  more  than  half  a 
mile  when  we  fell  in  with  four  travelers  going  to 
St.  Louis,  which  increased  our  number  to  eight 
persons,  and  placed  us  out  of  danger.  In  making 
a  memorandum  of  this  unpleasant  transaction, 
many  important  circumstances  and  some  facts 
have  been  omitted.  To  have  given  a  full  detail 
would  have  taken  more  time  than  is  in  my  power 
to  devote  at  this  time. 

Tuesday,  Nov.  9. — Traveled  forty-two  miles 
from  Rutherford's  to  McCart's,  a  tolerably  re 
spectable  house,  which  is  a  rare  thing  in  this  part 
of  the  country.  Large  prairies,  one  twenty-two 

50 


miles  wide.  Rich  land,  but  of  little  value,  the 
proportion  of  timber  being  too  small,  water  being 
scare  and  its  situation  remote.  Crossed  the  Okaw 
or  Kaskaskia  river  and  two  branches  of  Silver 
creek  on  the  10th  and  llth  days  of  the  month; 
distance,  fifty-four  miles.  Arrived  at  the  town 
of  Illinois,  on  the  Mississippi,  a  little  village  op 
posite  St.  Louis.  We  crossed  part  of  the  Ameri 
can  bottom,  which  has  the  appearance  of  once 
having  been  the  bed  of  some  lake  or  river.  It 
abounds  in  marine  substances.  It  is  bounded  by 
high  and  rocky  cliffs  from  100  to  300  feet  in 
height.  The  marks  washed  in  these  cliffs  cen 
turies  ago  at  high  and  low  water  mark  are  plain 
to  be  seen.  The  American  bottom  is  about  120 
miles  long  and  from  two  to  seven  miles  in  breadth ; 
contains  some  creeks  and  lakes ;  is  perfectly  level, 
without  a  stump  or  root.  Soil,  ten  feet  deep, 
black  as  ink,  very  light,  and  I  think  I  may  add 
without  the  fear  of  contradiction  that  it  is  the 
richest  land  in  the  world.  The  town  of  Illinois 
is  on  part  of  the  American  bottom,  which  is  low, 
flat  and  unhealthy.  Bilious  fevers  in  all  their 
various  shapes  are  to  found  in  almost  every 
family  for  forty  miles  around.  More  pale  and 
deathly-looking  faces  seen  in  the  last  two  days 
than  I  have  even  seen  in  Philadelphia  in  two 
months.  Crossed  over  the  bold  river  Illinois  to 
St.  Louis  and  bid  adieu  for  the  present  to  Illinois. 

51 


So  far  much  disappointed  in  the  inhabitants,  but 
not  in  the  land.  Illinois  is  the  hiding  place  for 
villains  from  every  part  of  the  United  States,  and, 
indeed,  from  every  quarter  of  the  globe.  A  ma 
jority  of  the  settlers  have  been  discharged  from 
penitentiaries  and  gaols  or  have  been  the  victims 
of  misfortune  or  imprudence.  Many  of  those 
will  reform,  but  many,  very  many,  are  made  fit 
for  robbery  and  murder.  High  as  our  country 
stands  above  others  for  its  perfection,  yet  it  has 
curses  which  at  times  threaten  to  sink  it  on  a 
level  with  the  most  disgraced.  Slavery  and  peni 
tentiaries  have  done  more  mischief  than  war  or 
disease.  I  hope  to  see  the  day  when  there  will  be 
universal  emancipation,  when  the  penitentiaries 
of  the  United  States  will  be  changed  from  schools 
of  vice  to  schools  of  virtue.  Then  will  the  United 
States  be  the  admiration  of  all  the  nations  of  the 
world,  and  he  that  is  born  within  their  bounds 
will  be  proud  of  the  land  that  gave  him  birth. 

Friday,  Nov.  12. — Remained  this  day  in  St. 
Louis.  The  town  is  not  very  handsome  or  large. 
The  streets  are  narrow  and  irregular,  and  the 
houses,  with  a  few  exceptions,  meanly  built.  It 
appears  the  attention  of  the  inhabitants  has  been 
turned  solely  toward  making  money.  Taste  and 
art  as  yet  have  been  much  neglected.  Visited  the 
Roman  chapel.  Although  unfinished  it  is  a  spa- 

52 


cious,  handsome  building.  The  new  bank  is  of 
modern  shape,  in  appearance,  a  very  neat  little 
building.  Visited  the  Indian  museum  or  grand 
council  or  war  chamber,  which  contains  many 
specimens  of  curious  workmanship,  and  a  number 
of  curiosities  presented  to  the  government  by  the 
chiefs  of  different  nations.  Visited  the  theater. 
This  is  only  a  temporary  building.  It  is  placed 
in  the  middle  of  a  duck  puddle,  is  finished  in  the 
coarsest  manner  and  of  the  meanest  materials. 
The  decorations  inside  are  few.  The  gallery  will 
contain  about  ten  persons  and  the  house  200. 
No  danger  of  fire.  The  water  rises  in  the  pit  and 
in  case  of  emergency  a  tolerably  brisk  fellow 
might  run  head  foremost  through  any  part  of  it. 
In  ridiculously  ugly  and  slight  appearance  it  sur 
passes  all  ever  seen  or  heard  of.  It  is  not  half  so 
large  or  half  so  good  as  the  common  horse-stables 
in  Philadelphia. 

Saturday,  Nov.  13.— Left  St.  Louis  at  6  o'clock 
a.  m.  Crossed  the  Mississippi  to  Illinois  on  my 
way  to  Kaskaskia.  Passed  a  small  village  called 
Cahokia,  a  miserable,  dirty  little  hole.  But  very 
few  good  houses.  Inhabitants  half  French,  half 
Indian,  retaining  part  of  the  manners  of  both.  The 
French  language  is  generally  spoken,  but  not  in 
its  purity.  For  eight  or  ten  miles  we  traveled 
on  the  American  bottom,  which,  in  all  probabili- 

53 


ties,  never  was  surpassed  in  fertility.  After  leav 
ing  the  bottom  the  country  is  rather  hilly  and  bar 
ren.  Traveled  twenty-two  miles  and  lodged  at 
Waterloo,  a  town  without  houses.  Only  two  fami 
lies  in  the  place.  Every  land  speculator  produces 
one  or  more  of  these  dirt-cabin  villages.  Indeed, 
two-thirds  of  the  travelers  met  with  are  land 
speculators.  The  inhabitants  of  this  part  of  the 
country  appear  to  be  a  wretched  set  of  beings. 
Their  great-coats  are  made  out  of  a  blanket,  with 
a  cap  or  hood  out  of  the  same  piece.  Then  moc 
casins  and  leggins  complete  the  suit.  Uncover  a 
Frenchman's  head  and  his  friends  are  immedi 
ately  alarmed  for  his  health.  The  pig  pens  in 
Pennsylvania  are  generally  as  clean  and  much 
better  built  than  the  miserable  huts  occupied  by 
these  lazy  people.  In  a  state  of  almost  starva 
tion  they  hold  their  Gumbo  balls  twice  a  week. 
For  nimbleness  of  foot  and  lightness  of  heart  the 
French  have  never  been  surpassed. 

"Hope  springs  eternal  in  the  human  breast; 
Man  never  is,  always  to  be,  blest." 

Excellent  wages  in  this  country  for  hired  peo 
ple,  either  black  or  white,  men  or  women.  It  is 
very  common  for  a  log  cabin  tavern  without  a 
door  or  window  (perhaps  a  log  out  to  answer  both 
purposes)  to  sup  and  lodge  twenty  persons,  men 

54 


women  and  children.  A  living  is  so  easily  ob 
tained  in  this  rich  country  that  the  most  indus 
trious  of  the  inhabitants  soon  grow  indolent. 
Perhaps  the  ague  and  fever  unfits  them  for  exer 
tion  or  labor,  but  those  things  or  something  not 
accounted  for  produces  laziness. 

Sunday,  Nov.  14. — Left  Waterloo  and  traveled 
twenty  miles  to  breakfast  at  Mrs.  LaCount's  in 
the  little  ancient  French  village  called  Prairie  De 
Rouche  or  Rocky  Meadows.  In  traveling  this  dis 
tance  I  saw  only  three  houses.  Just  before  I  ar 
rived  at  the  village  Prairie  De  Rouche  we  de 
scended  a  hill  half  a  mile  in  height  and  entered 
again  on  the  American  bottom.  The  lands  are 
hilly,  barren  and  full  of  limestone.  Game  of  all 
descriptions  in  great  abundance.  Mme.  LaCount 
entertained  us  politely.  She  is  considered  the 
queen  of  this  little  village,  which  is  the  sum  and 
substance  of  everything  that  is  poor  and  miser 
able.  Mme.  LaCount's  daughter  being  ill,  I  was 
deprived  of  a  great  deal  of  valuable  information. 
She  speaks  good  English,  and  is  a  very  sensible, 
intelligent  young  lady  for  such  a  village.  The 
houses  here  have  the  most  antique  and  mean  ap 
pearance,  built  of  the  barks  of  trees  and  pun 
cheons,  slabs,  etc.,  often  without  doors.  Their 
windows  are  without  sashes,  but  small  pieces  of 
broken  glasses  of  all  shapes  pasted  ingeniously 

55 


together  with  paper  serve  to  admit  the  light 
upon  a  motley  family,  between  white,  red  and 
black.  Many  of  those  wretched  hovels  are  ready 
to  tumble  down  on  the  heads  of  starving  Indians, 
French  and  negroes,  all  mixed  together.  Negro- 
French  is  the  common  language  of  this  town.  In 
deed,  unless  you  can  speak  some  French  it  is 
with  much  difficulty  you  can  find  any  person  who 
can  understand  you.  Left  Mme.  LaCount's, 
traveled  twelve  miles  over  an  extremely  fertile 
country  and  arrived  at  Kaskaskia  a  little  before 
sunset. 

Monday,  Nov.  15. — Remained  in  this  incon 
siderable  village  this  day.  Much  disappointed 
in  the  appearance  of  the  long-talked-of  Kaskas 
kia.  It  is  situated  on  the  Okaw  or  Kaskaskia 
river,  three  miles  from  the  Mississippi.  It  never 
can  be  a  place  of  much  business.  The  land  office 
is  kept  at  this  place.  There  are  some  neat  build 
ings,  but  they  are  generally  old,  ugly  and  incon 
venient.  Their  streets  are  irregular  and  of  bad 
widths.  The  inhabitants  are  all  generals,  col 
onels,  majors,  land  speculators  or  adventurers, 
with  now  and  then  a  robber  and  a  cutthroat.  I 
have  to  keep  my  long  knife  sharp  and  my  eyes 
open.  Went  to  church  at  night.  A  fellow  tried 
to  pick  my  pocket.  Had  my  hand  upon  my  long 
knife. 

56 


Tuesday,  Nov.  16. — Dr.  Hill  having  business 
at  the  lead  mine,  I  consented  to  wait  until  his  re 
turn.  Wanting  amusement,  I  engaged  in  hunt 
ing.  Among  other  game  I  wounded  a  parrot,  an 
uncommonly  handsome  bird,  with  rich  plumage. 
It  appeared  to  possess  all  the  sagacity  of  the  tame 
parrot.  When  it  was  first  wounded  it  made  every 
effort  to  defend  itself,  but  after  remaining  a  cap 
tive  for  a  short  time  it  appeared  pleased  with 
every  kind  attention,  as  do  the  domesticated  par 
rots  of  the  West  Indies.  In  hunting,  passed  over 
a  field  that  contains  5,000  acres  of  land,  princi 
pally  under  cultivation.  This  field  is  part  of  the 
American  bottom  and  is  the  common  property 
of  all  the  French  of  Kaskaskia.  This  land  pro 
duces  from  sixty  to  120  bushels  of  corn  to  the 
acre.  More  fertile  land  I  never  beheld.  The  in 
habitants  are  subject  to  intermittent  fevers.  At 
this  time  there  are  thousands  of  acres  of  this 
excellent  land  for  sale  at  from  $4  to  $8  an  acre, 
and  a  good  proportion  woodland.  Dr.  Hill  not 
having  returned  on  the  17th,  I  took  a  ride,  the 
day  being  pleasant  in  consequence  of  a  refreshing 
shower.  Visited  the  governor's  house,  a  miser 
able-looking  old  building,  such  as  is  found  in  the 
suburbs  of  towns.  Crossed  the  great  Okaw  or 
Kaskaskia  river.  The  water  not  knee-deep  and 
about  100  yards  wide.  Visited  the  lieutenant- 
governor's  house,  which  is  situated  across  this 

57 


stream,  opposite  and  in  sight  of  Kaskaskia.  This 
is  the  best-looking  house  in  the  place.  It  is  painted 
white,  but  stands  alone,  without  garden,  yard 
or  ornament  of  any  kind.  A  worm  fence  is  run 
around  the  house  to  keep  the  pigs  out  of  the  first 
story.  Col.  Menard,  the  lieutenant-governor,  is 
a  coarse-looking  Frenchman,  with  all  the  habits, 
manners  and  dress  of  the  common  ...  of 
Philadelphia.  Visited  the  Indian  king  of  the 
Kaskia  Indians  and  his  people,  who  reside  about 
three  miles  from  the  village.  This  nation  is  now 
reduced  to  about  thirty  in  number.  Many  years 
ago  all  the  different  tribes  of  Indians  combined, 
fell  upon  the  Kaskians  when  they  were  unpre 
pared  for  battle,  and  cut  to  pieces  all  their  war 
riors,  except  about  fifteen,  and  most  of  their 
women  and  children.  The  king  of  this  little 
nation  is  a  fine,  majestic-looking  man,  six  feet 
high.  He  spoke  French.  Was  polite  and  more 
gentlemanly  in  his  deportment  than  some  of  those 
great  men  of  the  place.  He  was  very  much  indis 
posed.  I  had  the  honor  of  prescribing  for  him. 
The  names,  manners  and  customs  of  these  people 
are  such  as  are  common  among  Indians,  with 
this  exception,  that  they  are  rather  more  comfort 
able  as  to  living,  etc.  I  was  very  much  struck 
with  the  appearance  of  one  of  the  young  men.  He 
is  tall,  straight,  elegant  and  unassuming  in  his 
manners,  has  fine,  regular  features,  and  possesses 

58 


as  mild  and  intelligent  a  countenance  as  is  to  be 
found  in  more  civilized  life.  His  eyes  are  dark, 
expressive  and  beaming  with  goodness,  instead 
of  ferocity. 

Thursday,  Nov.  18. — Dr.  Hill  not  having  re 
turned,  time  passed  heavily  on.  Hunted  occas 
ionally  and  visited  the  king  again.  I  found  his 
state  of  health  much  improved.  He  was  very 
polite.  Conversed  sensibly  and  invited  me  to  hunt 
with  him.  I  took  the  rounds  amongst  his  people. 
Found  them  generally  in  bark  huts,  sitting  flat 
on  the  floor,  making  moccasins,  etc.  As  none  but 
the  chief  could  speak  English,  I  was  deprived  of 
the  pleasure  of  conversation.  In  one  of  these 
bark  huts  without  a  door  (and  placed  at  a  con 
siderable  distance  from  the  other  lodges)  sat  a 
female  who  was  recently  confined.  This  female 
had  retired  to  this  cold  and  open  hut  during  her 
indisposition.  She  was  alone  from  choice,  and 
held  down  her  head  at  my  approach  and  showed 
signs  of  disapprobation.  How  commendable  the 
modesty,  even  in  a  savage !  She  was  placed  in  the 
middle  of  the  floor  near  a  handful  of  coals,  seated 
on  a  buffalo  robe  and  thinly  dressed.  The  day 
was  cold  and  she  was  without  any  appearance  of 
what  we  call  comfort.  A  small  mug  of  herb  tea 
was  her  drink,  and  there  was  no  food  to  be  seen. 
This  female  had  twin  children,  which  is  a  re- 

59 


markable  occurrence  amongst  savages.  These 
little  strangers  were  bandaged  tight  from  head  to 
foot  and  lashed  upon  a  board  with  one  end  sharp 
ened  for  the  convenience  of  the  mother.  When 
ever  she  grows  weary  one  end  of  the  board  is 
stuck  into  the  ground  and  the  children  often  are 
left  for  a  considerable  time.  The  appearance  is 
singular,  and  would  astonish  those  that  had  never 
seen  the  Indians'  manner  of  treating  their  chil 
dren.  Indian  children  are  white  when  born,  their 
eyes  very  black.  Their  hair  long,  straight  and 
black.  Their  features  full  and  well-shaped  with 
large,  Roman  noses.  They  look  healthy  and  ap 
pear  to  live  on  one-half  the  nourishment  which 
would  be  necessary  for  other  children.  During 
this  visit  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  king's 
daughter.  She  has  adopted  the  civil  dress  and  is 
polite  and  affable  for  a  savage.  She  speaks  but 
little  English  but  speaks  French  fluently.  Her 
father  and  self  profess  the  Roman  Catholic  re 
ligion.  This  Indian  is  more  comely  than  the  rest 
of  the  females,  but  I  have  never  been  able  to 
trace  any  lines  of  beauty  about  those  children 
of  the  forest.  This  Indian  king  owns  2,000  acres 
of  the  American  bottom.  Part  he  rents  out  to  ad 
vantage,  and  part  he  cultivates.  He  lives  well 
and  might  live  elegantly.  I  omitted  to  mention 
that  Kaskaskia  is  the  seat  of  government,  which 
gave  me  an  opportunity  of  seeing  all  the  heads 

60 


of  departments,  governor,  lieutenant-governor, 
secretary  of  state,  sheriffs,  magistrates,  etc.  They 
are  well  suited  to  a  new  country  and  an  infant 
state. 

Friday,  Saturday  and  Sunday,  Nov.  19-21. — 
Spent  those  days  in  Kaskia  and  its  neighborhood 
in  hunting,  and  rambling  through  this  garden  of 
a  country,  every  day  affording  new  amusement 
and  presenting  very  interesting  subjects  for  the 
mind  to  dwell  upon.  On  this  day,  the  21st,  Dr. 
Hill  returned  from  the  lead  mine,  a  distance  of 
forty-seven  miles.  He  traveled  over  a  poor  and 
barren  country  and  was  not  much  pleased  with 
his  journey.  He  saw  twenty  deer  in  one  herd, 
and  was  informed  there  were  some  buffalo,  wild 
cats,  wolves,  etc.,  in  the  neighborhood. 


V. — IN  POSSESSION  OF  THE  "PROMISED  LAND" 

Monday,  Nov.  22,  1819.— This  day  breakfasted 
with  Mr.  R.  Morrison  and  dined  with  Mr.  W. 
Morrison.  These  gentlemen  are  wealthy  and  live 
in  very  comfortable  style.  Mrs.  R.  Morrison  is 
one  of  the  most  intelligent  women  that  I  have  con 
versed  with,  and  possesses  a  lady's  privilege, 
while  Mrs.  W.  Morrison  might  rank,  in  point  of 
beauty  with  some  of  the  belles  of  Philadelphia. 

61 


Dr.  Hill  having  accomplished  his  business,  we 
set  out  from  Kaskia  at  2  o'clock,  after  bidding 
a  friendly  farewell  to  many  new  friends  made  in 
this  place.  I  must  confess  I  found  a  few  pos 
sessing  so  much  more  merit  than  I  anticipated 
that  I  parted  with  them  reluctantly.  Traveled 
twelve  miles,  and  arrived  at  Mme.  LeCount's. 
We  supped  with  a  tableful  of  French.  Not  one 
of  them  could  speak  English.  Pumpkins,  spoiled 
venison  and  rancid,  oily  butter  for  supper,  added 
to  the  odor  of  a  few  'coons  and  opossums  that 
were  ripening  in  the  sun,  induced  us  to  cut  our 
comfort  short.  During  the  night  I  was  taken  ill 
with  rheumatism.  Bled  myself  largely.  Set  out 
at  6  o'clock  in  the  morning  rather  better,  though 
dull.  Passed  some  small  lakes  full  of  ducks  and 
geese.  Saw  seven  deer,  some  wild  turkeys  and 
other  game.  Retraced  our  former  steps.  Passed 
Cahokia,  a  small  and  unimproving  village,  and 
arrived  at  the  town  of  Illinois  at  7  o'clock  p.  m. 

Wednesday,  Nov.  24. — Crossed  over  to  St. 
Louis  to  inquire  for  old  friends  or  acquaintances 
from  Philadelphia.  Even  an  enemy  would  have 
been  taken  by  the  hand,  but  to  my  disappointment 
there  was  no  arrival.  Recrossed  the  Mississippi, 
and  set  out  for  Edwardsville.  Passed  some  large 
lakes.  Large  and  extremely  fertile  prairies,  neat 
dwellings  and  good  farms,  well  cultivated.  Ar- 

62 


rived  at  Edwardsville,  a  distance  of  twenty-two 
miles,  at  7  o'clock.  Edwardsville  is  a  small  but 
flourishing  little  village.  Goods  three  prices. 
Labor  high.  Lands  rich  and  the  place  thriving 
for  an  inland  town. 

Friday,  Nov.  26. — Rainy  day.  Deposited  deeds 
at  recorder's  office.  Detained  on  land  business. 
I  expected  this  day  to  have  set  out  for  the  bounty 
lands.  Dr.  Hill  having  fully  accomplished  his 
business,  he  declined  accompanying  me  agreeable 
to  promise,  and  I  returned  to  St.  Louis  alone, 
leaving  him  behind,  intending  to  seek  more  grate 
ful  company. 

Wednesday,  Dec.  1. — In  consequence  of  the  dis 
appointment  occasioned  by  Dr.  Hill  refusing  to 
accompany  me  to  the  bounty  lands,  I  was  sub 
jected  to  considerable  expense,  loss  of  time  and 
much  inconvenience.  On  the  3d  day  of  December 
Dr.  Hill  set  out  for  Philadelphia,  in  company  with 
one  of  my  friends,  a  Mr.  Pratt,  a  clever  old  farmer 
and  a  missionary  Methodist  preacher.  I  accom 
panied  them  across  the  river.  In  parting  with 
Dr.  Hill  I  must  in  honesty  confess  I  felt  none  of 
those  unpleasant  sensations  produced  at  parting 
with  a  friend.  A  pleasant  ride  and  a  final  adieu 
to  him.  After  dividing  my  time  between  St. 
Louis  and  Illinois  until  the  8th  day  of  December, 

63 


I  set  out,  in  company  with  a  Mr.  B ,  to  visit 

the  bounty  lands.  Traveled  to  Milton,  a  small 
town  over  the  American  bottom,  twenty  miles. 
This  soil  cannot  be  surpassed  in  fertility  by  any 
land  upon  the  globe.  Eighty  and  100  bushels 
of  corn  to  the  acre  are  common  crops  without  any 
labor  except  that  which  is  necessary  in  planting. 
This,  in  truth,  is  the  promised  land — the  land 
that  flows  with  milk  and  honey.  Stock  in  any 
quantities  may  be  raised  free  from  expense,  and 
every  article  made  by  the  farmer  commands  as 
high  a  price  as  in  Philadelphia,  and  a  more  ready 
market.  How  many  thousands  are  there  in  the 
eastern  states  who  work  like  the  slaves  of  the 
south  and  are  barely  able  to  support  their  fami 
lies  without  even  the  hope  in  old  age  to  become 
comfortable.  Could  they  believe  there  was  such 
a  country  in  the  world,  could  they  know  that  lands 
of  the  first  quality  can  be  obtained  so  easily,  and 
be  informed  that  the  rewards  of  industry  are  so 
great,  they  would  instantly  fly  to  the  west  and 
meet  fatigue  and  hardships  on  the  way  with  a 
smile.  In  a  few  years  the  consequence  would  be 
the  accumulation  of  wealth  and  fair  prospects 
for  a  rising  family.  Milton  is  situated  on  Wood 
river  (a  very  small  stream  opposite  the  mouth  of 
the  Missouri  river  and  within  one  and  a  half  miles 
of  the  Mississippi).  It  is  a  flourishing  little  vil 
lage  only  one  and  a  half  years  old.  Near  this 

64 


place  lands  command  from  $5  to  $10  an  acre. 
Milton,  together  with  all  the  American  bottom, 
is  subject  to  bilious  and  intermittent  fevers  dur 
ing  the  warm  months.  The  banks  of  Wood  river 
during  the  last  war  were  often  scoured  by  the 
Indians,  and  became  the  theater  of  some  savage 
and  barbarous  deeds.  A  narrative  hangs  yet  on 
the  lips  of  the  inhabitants,  which  has  seldom 
found  its  parallel  in  the  most  remote  desert  by 
the  most  ferocious  or  bloodthirsty.  Seven  war 
riors  attacked  and  murdered  a  female  and  her 
four  little  children  almost  in  sight  of  her  own 
dwelling.  She  and  the  little  innocents  had  spent 
an  evening  at  a  friend's  house,  and  were  return 
ing  home.  The  shrieks  of  this  unfortunate  family 
brought  the  husband  to  the  scalped  and  lifeless 
corpse  of  a  beloved  wife,  and  a  tender  and  affec 
tionate  father  to  his  four  little  children  bleeding 
in  death,  the  suckling  child  with  a  tomahawk 
sticking  in  its  head.  None  but  a  husband  and 
father  can  feel  the  deep  agony  which  must  arise 
from  so  bloody  a  transaction.  Those  warriors, 
whose  companion  was  cruelty  and  whose  happi 
ness  was  in  murder,  were  pursued  by  some  reso 
lute  and  spirited  volunteers  from  the  neighbor 
hood.  They  were  overtaken  and  every  man  put 
to  death.  Not  long  after  this  butchery  another 
party  fell  upon  a  defenseless  family  in  the  same 
neighborhood.  They  shot  an  old  man  in  his  door, 

65 


scalped  a  young  female  in  the  house  and  threw  her 
in  the  fire,  tomahawked  and  scalped  two  little 
children,  whilst  two  boys  made  their  escape — one 
6  and  the  other  8  years  old.  These  little  children 
wandered  about  the  fields  and  woods  for  three 
days  without  nourishment  except  the  berries  and 
roots  which  they  were  able  to  collect  from  the 
fields.  Three  times  did  they  get  in  sight  of  the 
murderers,  and  as  often  hid  themselves  in  the 
leaves,  and  finally  found  their  way  to  a  house  and 
communicated  the  dreadful  intelligence  of  the 
massacre.  The  hand  that  governs  and  protects 
all  was  outstretched  to  save  these  children  in  a 
manner  unusual.  I  am  now  in  sight  of  the  death 
spot  of  those  unfortunates,  and  expect  to  travel 
100  miles  farther,  where  but  a  short  time  since 
no  track  or  trace  was  to  be  seen  except  that  of 
the  savage. 

Thursday,  Dec.  9. — Left  Milton  at  6  o'clock. 
Passed  Alton,  distance  from  Milton  one  and  one- 
half  miles.  Here  I  must  remark  every  man  makes 
his  own  town  and  sometimes  more  than  one. 
Within  five  miles  there  are  five  towns,  as  they 
are  called,  but  all  insignificant  and  improperly 
placed.  Their  names  are  Milton,  Alton,  Middle 
Alton,  Lower  Alton  and  Sales.  Those  mushroom 
towns  in  a  short  time  will  produce  their  own 
death.  Although  their  lives  are  short  they  do 

66 


mischief  to  the  community.  People  in  their  neigh 
borhood  are  unwise  enough,  for  the  sake  of  hav 
ing  a  town  lot,  to  give  as  much  for  a  few  feet 
of  ground  as  would  purchase  a  good  farm  (160 
acres  of  land).  They  are  then  tied  to  the  little 
town,  where  their  property  can  never  be  of  much 
value,  nor  can  it  produce  a  living.  Strangers  or 
men  at  a  distance  purchase  lots  in  towns  they 
have  never  seen,  under  the  impression  they  are, 
or  soon  will  be,  like  the  eastern  cities.  To  town- 
makers  or  land  speculators  the  subject  is  very 
pleasant.  To  hear  them  describe  the  advantages 
of  a  barren  spot  perhaps  ten  miles  from  any  navi 
gable  stream,  and  it  is  more  than  probable  not 
even  near  a  spring  branch  that  would  float  a  corn 
stalk  boat.  Could  you  believe  their  assertions, 
a  single  lot  which  they  have  for  sale  would  pro 
duce  a  fortune  that  would  make  a  man  comfort 
able  all  his  old  days.  I  must  not  omit  an  anecdote 
that  applies  well  to  those  townmakers.  A  gentle 
man  visited  the  fertile  lands  of  Illinois.  In  the 
course  of  his  journey  he  passed  very  many  of 
those  trifling  towns.  When  about  to  turn  toward 
his  home  he  had  occasion  to  enter  a  tavern  for 
refreshment.  Here  they  kept  a  register  of  names, 
a  common  practice  in  the  western  country.  On 
entering  the  door  the  barkeeper  requested  him  to 
enter  his  name.  He  hesitated,  appeared  con 
fused  and  begged  to  be  excused,  stating  he  had 

67 


a  particular  objection  which  he  would  make 
known  when  he  was  about  to  start,  provided  it 
could  be  kept  a  secret,  which  was  consented  to. 
This  was  sufficient  to  arouse  the  suspicions  of  all 
who  were  in  the  house  as  to  the  stranger's  hon 
esty.  All  the  neighbors  assembled.  Some  de 
clared  he  was  a  horse  thief,  others  a  murderer, 
while  the  most  charitable  stated  he  had  been  a 
member  of  the  penitentiary  fraternity.  After  ob 
taining  refreshments  with  some  difficulty  he 
mounted  his  horse  amidst  the  gaping  crowd, 
called  for  the  barkeeper  and  whispered  in  his  ear, 
loud  enough  for  everybody  to  hear :  "My  name  is 
Robinson.  I  objected  to  mentioning  it,  fearing 
you  would  name  a  town  after  me!"  He  spurred 
his  horse,  rode  off  and  left  the  gaping  crowd, 
which  is  always  to  be  found  about  little  villages, 
much  disappointed  and  -chagrined.  Traveled 
twenty-seven  miles  over  a  rich  country,  part  roll 
ing,  part  broken,  belonging  to  the  United  States. 
This  part  of  Illinois  is  high  and  healthy  and  is  well 
watered.  Arrived  at  the  Widow  Jackaway's  ferry, 
one  mile  above  the  junction  of  the  Mississippi  and 
Illinois  rivers.  Passed  several  small  French  huts, 
made  principally  of  bark,  very  open  and  but  little 
appearance  of  comfort.  Large  strings  of  geese, 
ducks,  opossums  and  skunks  hung  upon  the  sides 
of  the  huts  to  ripen.  At  Mrs.  Jackaway's  we  were 
entertained  kindly.  We  slept  on  a  bedcord  and 

68 


covered  with  a  cow-hide.  There  was  but  one 
room  to  the  house,  hen  house  excepted,  which 
formed  rather  a  separate  apartment,  but  with 
out  a  door,  and  the  fowls  had  to  pass  through  the 
house  to  get  to  their  lodgings.  This  appeared 
necessary  to  protect  them  from  the  wolves  and 
wildcats. 

Friday,  Dec.  10. — Left  Mrs.  Jackaway's  at  8 
o'clock.  Crossed  the  Illinois  on  a  platform  placed 
on  two  canoes,  and  arrived  in  safety  on  the  bounty 
lands  a  little  above  the  junction  of  the  bold  Mis 
sissippi  and  the  Illinois.  Each  of  those  rivers 
is  about  half  a  mile  wide.  Here  a  new  country 
presented  itself,  of  better  quality  and  under  more 
advantages  than  I  was  prepared  to  meet.  Trav 
eled  all  day  through  the  woods,  meadows  and 
prairies.  It  began  raining.  We  were  fortunate 
.in  being  able  to  reach  Mme.  Belfie's,  on  the  banks 
of  the  Illinois.  On  inquiring  if  we  could  remain 
all  night,  being  wet  and  uncomfortable,  we  were 
received  with  all  the  politeness  that  characterizes 
the  French  under  all  circumstances,  and  given  in* 
broken  English  a  hearty  welcome.  Supper  being 
prepared  for  the  family,  we  were  invited  to  par 
take.  Curiosity,  which  has  led  us  into  many 
scrapes,  was  on  tiptoe.  Wild  goose  was  very 
good.  After  fishing  in  the  dish  some  time  I 
found  something  with  a  new  flavor.  It  proved 

69 


to  be  skunk.  Made  a  light  supper  and  retired  to 
bed.  Mme.  Belfie  lives  in  a  log  hut  about  twelve 
feet  square.  This  contains  a  bed  for  the  old  lady 
and  her  daughter,  two  dogs,  one  hen  and  chickens, 
two  chairs,  and  one  table.  It  is  easy  to  imagine 
there  was  not  much  room  left  for  two  common- 
sized  men.  However,  we  spread  down  our  buffalo- 
skin  and  covered  with  our  great-coats,  and  for 
the  first  time  I  slept  on  a  floor.  Sore  sides,  but 
good  spirits  and  no  cold.  Began  to  envy  the  red- 
men  of  the  forest.  They  have  no  care,  no  trouble, 
to  wrinkle  the  brow. 

Sunday,  Dec.  12.— Left  Mme.  Belfie's  after  be 
ing  treated  with  the  utmost  hospitality  and  polite 
ness.  She  discovered  herself  to  be  a  wellbred 
woman,  but  she  was  not  one  of  fortune's  favorites. 
During  the  evening  she  amused  us  by  giving  a 
small  history  of  her  life.  However,  her  story 
ended  with  a  detail  of  misfortunes.  About  seven 
years  ago  a  dreadful  earthquake  occurred  at  New 
Madrid,  on  the  Mississippi  where  was  the  habita 
tion  of  this  lady  and  her  husband.  Their  home 
was  swallowed  up,  their  slaves  ran  away,  all  their 
property  was  lost,  and  with  great  difficulty  got  off 
with  their  lives.  The  earth  opened  and  swallowed 
up  many  houses,  then  threw  up  water  and  trees 
to  a  great  height.  Several  lives  were  lost 
and  many  families  ruined.  These  unfortunate 

70 


French  people  then  sought  shelter  from  the  storm 
near  the  forks  of  the  Mississippi  and  Illinois 
rivers,  intending,  by  industry  and  frugality,  to 
make  an  effort  to  get  forward  once  more  in  the 
world.  The  manner  in  which  this  old  lady  gave 
an  account  of  her  misfortunes  was  truly  inter 
esting  whilst  she  made  a  strong  impression  on  the 
mind  by  her  gestures.  The  only  article  saved 
from  the  earthquake  was  a  bag  of  gunpowder, 
with  which,  in  this  country,  where  there  is  an 
abundance  of  game,  plenty  of  provisions  may  be 
obtained.  It  was  necessary  that  the  bag  con 
taining  this  powder  should  be  tied.  The  wife 
held  whilst  the  husband  tied  the  string,  but  draw 
ing  it  very  tight  one  end  slipped  through  his 
fingers  and  the  jerk  threw  the  bag  of  powder 
into  the  fire,  which  blew  them  both  up  and  burnt 
all  their  clothes  off  them.  They  were  ill  a  con 
siderable  time,  but  recovered.  They  had  nothing 
left,  but,  like  the  French,  they  were  cheerful,  not 
discouraged,  and  almost  happy.  They  are  now 
getting  forward  again,  and,  oh,  may  the  storm 
of  adversity  never  again  assail  the  cottage  of  gen 
uine  hospitality! 

Monday,  Dec.  13. — Left  Mme.  Belfie's,  crossed 
the  Illinois  and  breakfasted  at  the  Widow  Jacka- 
way's.  Here  we  met  with  some  travelers,  ladies 
and  gentlemen,  who  had  been  upwards  of  three 

71 


months  on  the  water  in  an  open  boat.  They  were 
forty-nine  days  on  Lake  Michigan  and  were 
bound  from  Mackinaw  to  St.  Louis.  We  retraced 
our  former  footsteps  for  four  miles  and  traveled 
on  the  shore  of  the  Mississippi  twelve  miles.  On 
the  shore  of  the  Mississippi  for  miles  stand  cliffs 
or  bluffs  composed  of  rocks,  stones  and  marine 
substances.  They  are  from  100  to  400  feet  high. 
In  many  places  there  appear  to  be  pillars  or 
regular  columns  supporting  those  wonderful 
heights,  which  in  many  places  appear  almost 
ready  to  tumble  on  those  below.  In  the  body 
of  this  irregular  mass  I  entered  three  caves,  two 
large  enough  to  protect  a  considerable  family 
from  the  storm  and  the  third  sufficiently  large  to 
contain  twenty  men  on  horseback.  This  cave 
is  supported  by  a  neat  pillar  in  the  center.  In  sev 
eral  places  I  saw  marks  on  the  cliffs  at  a  con 
siderable  height  made  with  the  different  colors 
that  Indians  use  to  paint  themselves.  From  their 
arrangement,  it  appears  the  men  of  the  desert 
had  tried  their  agility  to  place  the  highest  mark 
on  the  cliffs.  Near  those  caves  are  the  names  of 
a  number  of  persons  cut  in  the  soft  parts  of  the 
rocks.  In  traveling  along  the  shore  I  picked  up 
several  specimens  of  the  most  beautiful  pearl  I 
ever  beheld.  It  is  so  plentiful  here  that  no  person 
thinks  it  worth  picking  up.  After  traveling 
forty-three  miles  through  the  rain  I  arrived  again 

72 


at  St.  Louis  on  the  13th  of  December.  In  ap 
proaching  the  Illinois  and  Mississippi  near  the 
mouth  from  Milton  a  scene  beautiful,  grand  and 
sublime  presents  itself.  Immediately  after  leav 
ing  a  thick  wood  you  find  yourself  on  the  point 
of  a  knob  or  small  mountain  many  hundred  feet 
high.  From  this  eminence  you  have  a  view  of 
three  bold  and  beautiful  streams — the  Missis 
sippi,  Illinois  and  Missouri.  The  country  on  one 
side  is  bordered  with  very  high  bluffs  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach,  and  on  the  other  is  a  meadow 
or  plain  prairie,  which  extends  for  many  miles 
in  every  direction,  and  occasionally  is  interspersed 
with  handsome  forest  trees.  The  shells  and 
marine  substances  which  are  found  near  those 
large  rivers  are  similar  to  those  seen  in  the  West 
Indies  and  on  the  seaboard,  but  I  have  no  recol 
lection  of  ever  having  seen  such  near  any  stream 
remote  from  the  sea.  This,  with  many  other  ap 
pearances,  holds  out  a  strong  inducement  to  be 
lieve  that  the  sea  once  covered  this  country  for 
many  hundred  miles ;  that  the  cliffs  were  its  bor 
ders,  and  that  some  violent  convulsion  of  nature 
has  caused  it  to  recede  and  expose  to  view  the 
most  fertile  country  on  the  globe.  Should  acci 
dent  place  this  memorandum  in  the  hands  of  any 
person,  an  apology  will  be  necessary  for  expres 
sions  and  opinions  which  is  contains.  In  speak 
ing  of  particular  states  and  people  I  have  ex- 

73 


pressed  myself  as  a  traveler,  but  have  stated  facts. 
The  country  traveled  over  by  strangers  is  gen 
erally  the  most  barren,  and  the  inhabitants  a 
coarse  sample  of  the  state.  When  I  have  ex 
pressed  an  opinion  which  appears  not  to  be 
liberal,  it  is  intended  to  apply  to  the  lower  class, 
of  whom  there  is  a  large  majority.  A  gentleman 
or  lady  is  the  same  all  over  the  world,  and  al 
though  in  the  different  states  there  are  many 
characters  of  the  first  respectability,  and  al 
though  some  of  the  French  are  rich,  liberal  and 
gentlemanly  men,  yet  this  memorandum  is  strictly 
correct  when  applied  to  the  general  mass. 

RICHARD  LEE  MASON. 


74 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

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